https://www.google.com/maps/@49.4971733,-76.782168,5z/data=!4m2!6m1!1szQP1ZTTZEi1I.kK5t7cAeEvW4
See the map outline again by clicking on link
THE FERRY RIDE
This part of the trip began with our Atlantic Vision ferryboat crossing of 266 miles in 14 hours to the island of Newfoundland. Usually listed as a twelve hour crossing from Sydney, NS to Argentia, NL, our crossing took quite a bit longer. Tropical depression, then named Hurricane Arthur did bring rain and wind to Nova Scotia, but by that time Dan and I had bought tickets to travel on Friday, July 4th before the storm was predicted. A bit worried as the time drew closer, we contacted the ferry company and a few days later they contacted us...saying to arrive at the ferry departure dock two hours earlier than the agreed time of 4:00pm. We did arrive earlier and were loaded earlier for the trip. I should say shoehorned in! A few hours into the trip, when conditions appeared to be stable on the ferry route the Captain slowed the ferry down considerably to keep to her appointed, and usual schedule.
Interestingly, the vibration of the engines under the cars, caused our locked car to sound a piercing alert to the car guards below, every 15 minutes. Imagine hearing the loudspeaker through the entire ferry asking the owner of the blue Subaru Forrester to come to the reception desk! I clicked the operator door open with the key and after checking everything locked again. Before we, (the car guard and I) reached the stairs, the car siren went off again. This time while hurrying back on the slippery deck I slipped and fell down. Unhurt and helped to my feet, I clicked the key again, after checking the owners' manual for clues. The unlock worked so we left the car unalarmed. The nice guy was worried that in a 14 hour trip we would have a dead battery.
No excitement after that. The food was good, but expensive, and sleeping close to impossible.
AVALON PENINSULA
We disembarked in Argentia, NL at the busy but not huge ferry terminal, sped out into traffic and headed south through the malls, gas stations and villages to look around the part of the little populated South Coast of Avalon we did not see in 2008. The weather just did not allow us to travel east on a sailboat at that time, so we had turned west from Grand Harbor, an interesting harbor 20 nm from the French Islands of St. Pierre and Michelon.
There are many named nature reserves and attractions on the Avalon Peninsula; St. Mary's for seabirds, provincial parks filled with coastal beauty. We headed toward that southern, and then eastern coast.
Enjoy this set of pictures that take us from the Argentia Ferry Dock to Saint John's July 5 through 10th. First set.
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| 2014 oOL Ferry, birds, whales Avalon South and east coast |
A FEW THOUGHTS ON A BEAUTIFUL ISLAND
After seeing sights off the roads of the Avalon Peninsula we then headed to the one city mentioned constantly in the historical records of Newfoundland, but also the modern city of music and opportunity for many young Newfoundlanders, St. John's, where one claim to fame these days is a waterfront of repute.
George Street is a small street located in St. John's, Newfoundland and Labrador, that is known for its many bars and pubs.
The two block long street houses nothing but bars, pubs and restaurants. George Street is only open to pedestrians in the evenings and during most of the business day, only being open to traffic in the mornings to allow bars to restock their goods. The street has the most bars and pubs per square foot of any street in North America. (copied from Wikopedia)
Dan and I spent just two nights in St. John's. We traveled much further north expecting,(remember, I saw a smallish iceberg in St. John's Harbor) hoping to see the wildlife, sea birds and icebergs shown in the glossy information booklets provided at the accommodating tourist information centers.
NEWFOUNDLAND TERRAIN
Each crossing of landforms prolific with lakes, streams, rivers and areas of mountain wilderness away from the coast and then westward on the island of Newfoundland, showed us the wilderness that still exists and the unique and amazing landscape so dear to the natives.
The importance of land and family prevalent in their Celtic songs, performances and dances is well known and appreciated by visitors to the island. Many of the youth as they finish school or become young adults, both male and female leave home for greater opportunity. Many have left their families, sometimes kids, the land, and their homes behind for better jobs in St. Johns, or the Alberta oil fields, large construction projects and the like for part of or more than a few years. We were told they often move back to settle and raise their families in the place of their birth. They can do nothing else; the land calls them back.
Showing the world how life used to be in Newfoundland through tourism seems to have replaced much of the fishing industry. Although hard work and individualistic spirit are valued, the fisheries remain at reduced resources; the old time jobs and lifestyle are mostly gone.
The change came with the Fisheries Reduction Acts passed in the late 1990's and are renewed each year. The research available shows the fishery recovery each year was not sustainable. Fishing boats were sold, packing plants closed and entire towns closed down by people leaving for the more populated areas.
FISHERY IS COMING BACK
In a change for Dan and I since 2008 in Newfoundland, recreationally, during a short period of a few months, the people as individuals but not a fishing business are able to fish for ground fish (cod) with strict regulation ie: each adult on a boat may take up to 5 fish for personal use per day but up to 15 fish per boat only. As this season opened, the visitors to Newfie such as ourselves could buy fresh, never frozen codfish in a grocery or restaurant and it was gooood!
FEW EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES
Dan and I saw Lewisport and its growing marine, industrial and home building industry and then the northern coastal areas where men and boats are still trying with great difficulty to make a living from the sea. We met locals from the public sector, a teacher very satisfied with her career as she approached retirement, the Park Rangers and various inspectors paid by the province or national government did ok if they had a job. For some finding a job was difficult.
We stayed just one night at "The Cosiest Inn" in Green Cove Harbor, on the west coast of Newfoundland near route 430, the Viking Trail. We found it by following posted handwritten signage. In morning conversation over coffee and pancakes, we learned Colin was a moose hunting guide, fisherman for fish, crabs and lobster in the various seasons and Rosie managed the Inn, made the breakfast, and also was a cashier in a local market. She was a busy lady and when I called for a room she was not at home, but told us just to go in and select one of two rooms. She didn't return for hours after we arrived! These owners of the Inn, rent for a very modest price, part of their self-built home. They had a teenage daughter ready for advanced schooling, and for that she would be going to the city of St. John's, quite a way from her home. When the family shops they go to the large town of Corner Brook where there is a mall. Colin takes his hunters across route 430 to his hunting area near the east coast and Rosie cooks at camp. As we were leaving, it came up in conversation that Dan and I had never tasted moose. Immediately Colin went to the freezer and with instructions from Rosie we prepared the meat at our campsite that evening. Delicious! I suggest this family is an example of the enterprise that the locals show to live a modest lifestyle.
The infrastructure along the one major highway is limited. Varied jobs along the highway would mean excessive daily travel and smaller family owned stores, restaurants, and attractions have a difficult time enticing enough business to survive financially.
The many truckers passing through to somewhere else, use Irving Gas and eat microwaved pizza at the convenience stores as they buy their fuel and keep going. A good part of the year life is made more difficult to draw in tourists with the extreme weather. Snow may stay on the ground through April or May and longer in the mountains.
TOURISTS
We met really friendly folks who continue to struggle with the northern winters and lack of business opportunities, but love their Island, play wonderful music, and enjoy the land and outdoors year round. The snowmobile and quads are used to carry in the wood and visits to shops and major stores are infrequent.
Dan and I continued on as tourists and were pleased to see many wonderful sights and excellent Provincial, and National Park systems. The Canadians have many acres of land; seashore, wooded areas, bogs and areas of historical importance in the public trust. We could look on the rocks above the sea for seabirds and enjoy whale watching from shore or boat quite easily at the parks. The ecotourist and active adventurers each find their niches. Fresh water tourists angle for salmon and trout, and moose and bear hunters- as Caribou stocks have declined-are among the people who travel to NL+L. Some sealing is allowed the First Nations peoples.
The next two sets of pictures brought Dan and me across the northern tips of the North Coast and to the extradinary area of Gros Morne National Park and L'anse aux Meadows, both places where the memory of First Nation people who came before are honored; the Innuit, Innu, Beothuk and the Mi'kmaq along with their conquerors and rivals for the land. The British and French fought long and hard and frequently over control of the waterways and fisheries -as recounted according to historical documents and artifacts.
We experienced how this could have happened when shortly after we arrived in Argentia the masses of capilen fish arrived, bringing with them the migratory sea birds, the whale migrations and seals - and even today the fishermen may work all night and day to use every allotted minute of the precious state allowed fisheries.
Capelin: A Small Fish of Great Importance
Capelin was traditionally fished in the St. Lawrence Estuary and Gulf of St. Lawrence for use as fertilizer or bait. Today, its roe is primarily sold to the Japanese market. This extremely lucrative market has sent the capelin fishery skyrocketing. Landings have increased from some 700 tonnes to over 10 000 tonnes per year. Capelin's ecological significance has prompted Fisheries and Oceans Canada to step up efforts to protect this coveted resource. François Grégoire, a biologist at the Maurice Lamontagne Institute in Mont-Joli, Quebec, is in charge of assessing capelin stocks in the St. Lawrence Estuary and the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
Capelin is a small fish that lives in the water column. The species is referred to as pelagic. Capelin prefers the cold waters of the Northern Hemisphere. It lives in the northwestern Atlantic in a vast territory that extends from the Labrador coasts to the St. Lawrence Estuary. Capelin is a forage species and attracts many predators, including fish species and marine birds. According to recent estimates, between 300 000 and 400 000 tonnes of capelin are consumed annually in the St. Lawrence Estuary and Gulf of St. Lawrence. This interest in capelin serves the marine ecosystem well. The increase in catches in recent decades reinforces the importance of carefully assessing and protecting this species
http://www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/science/publications/article/2012/06-08-12-eng.html
There are many pictures to follow. In order to read the captions a reader may have to slow the slides and perhaps zoom the bird pics.
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| 2014 St. John's to Blow ME down July OL |
This second set of photos takes us from the Gros Morne National Park on the west of the island of NL to a small village, Englee, on the east coast where French fishermen and now landholders have settled, beyond which there are no roads. We retrace a bit and drive west across the Northern Peninsula to St.Barbe ferry to cross to Labrador and Quebec Province.
Some have very long captions. click to see slideshow
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| 2014 Gros Morne to Ferry July 15 OL |
If you like to identify flowers, check this site. jackmaryetc.com/Travel/Americas/Newfoundland/NFWildflowers.html
The next blog entry will take Dan and I through Labrador which is always associated with Newfoundland, not considered a different province.
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