SEA STAR TRAVEL LOG: TIKAL AND YAXHA RUINS August 15, 2012

Second big trip inland away from the boat in August - Tikal Revisited

It's difficult to interpret the historical facts presented at the famous and fabulous Mayan ruins of Tikal. The temple structures are the largest and most reclaimed from the encroaching jungle that we have visited. Thus they are magnificent and mysterious. More is being determined, however, about how the people of the time lived, what was important to them, the passage of time from ruler to ruler and much more from the hieroglyphs carved in stone on buildings and stellae at the various sites. Some newer information challenges some older held beliefs; for instance the Mayans were a peaceful agrarian society. Sometimes that belief holds true but because sacrificial round stone alters were found with glyphs scientists now know prisoners were kidnapped and killed or held as slaves in great numbers, nobles and working people such as farmers and tradespersons did not interact or live near eachother and the common people rarely were allowed near the great temples.
This visit was Dan and my fourth visit to Tikal, our first was in 1971 when a person could camp right in next to the main temples. Now that is not possible, but there are two hotels available within the park and accommodation between Tikal and Flores. We chose to stay in Flores and paid our driver to stay with us for four days. The price was reasonable at about $75.00 US per person to drive from the Rio and return there and be brought and picked up at the two ruins for two days.

Our first day started at 4:30 in the early morning with our guide/driver Enrique and his friend who would stay with our group during our visit to Tikal, driving us in the van from Flores to the gates of Tikal, so we could get to Temple IV before sunrise. They even brought us in a bit further inside before we began our climb to sit on the temple ledge as perhaps the noble Mayans did back before 900AD. Here we awaited sunrise peering through the early morning mist, listening to the waking sounds of the jungle; jays, toucans parrots, howler monkeys, insects and frogs. Their voices raising in crescendo as the sun begins to burn brightly in front of us. We on the other hand feel the spirituality of the place and are awed into silence.

Dan waiting for sunrise with Eric of Sirena of Oare

Over one half hour we watched the tops of the trees ahead of us as dawn approached

By this time the birds and animals were noisily going about their day

Just one of many Toucans

A huge spider web.

Near Temple IV we explore the area called the Lost World, the oldest part of the ruin and where many birds are to be seen

One of a flock of Oscillated Turkey

Dan contemplating the universe, and looking for the hawk that we were told lives on Temple IV.

One coati

Temple II can not be climbed any more, it's crumbling

The distinctive v shaped portals

Stellae in the main plaza

Grey Fox

I became separated from the others when they were too tired to see yet another temple and found myself surrounded by all these Coatimundi. They have mouths full of sharp teeth!

After the sunrise we explored the ruins for about another six hours, then returned, exhaused and hot to our hotel Casa de las Flores in the town of Flores where we rested up, ate very well and prepared for our second day when we would visit Yaxha, another ruin; less developed as a site, fewer people, quieter, which has temples just as large and perhaps a better view of Lake Petin from the top.

Map of the complexes and distances of Yaxha.

Cicadas on a tree- very noisy!

Near one of the ball courts

Peering through the trees from the top of one temple, a visitor is able to see to comb of the highest temple above everything. Why the combs and how did Mayans build the temple? The reason for the building has been determined to be to entomb and respect usually a ruler of the city.