March was going to be a moving time after enjoying the Exuma chain and being on the Bahama Banks taking it easy three sets of visitors. We had made short day sails when the wind was right- which can mean a few hours of making time before the engine was used to boogy-on quickly between the Cays to make best use of each day's sunlight, but not many miles were covered
During the month of February Dan and I had become aware of many cruisers moving south; to the end of the road for some, and the beginning of greater adventures for others-
Should we or shouldn't we?
When we left Titusville, FL in December, it was with both Dan and I agreeing that after we spent time in the Bahamas we would decide whether to do as many boats from the USA do, turn around and return. After all we had left our dock live-aboard friends, family, motorcycle, and our car. What we had now was a still working boat. Sea Star, born in 2006 was in great shape, we were healthy... so onward with the "adventure continues" crowd to "GT."
George Town, often referred to by cruisers as 'summer camp for adults" is located on Great Exuma Cay. Yes, there are myriad activities, informal classes and Bahama fun but it is the only place where boats can be worked on, supplies procured locally or flown in and you are sure to meet a cruiser who will have current information on routes, country rules or exciting places you may want to visit. We were hoping to meet up with Barb and Jay on Jupiter's Smile and travel on south with them to Jamaica, now that we had decided to go.
Below is posted a map. I hope you are able to see where we came into the Bahamas at Gun Cay,(basically east from Miami) to Nassau---to the Exuma chain where there is a light colored rectangle to show the Exuma Land and Sea Park. Staniel Cay and Black Point Settlement do not show up, but are between the Exuma Land and Sea Park and the place labeled George Town, still part of the Exumas on Great Exuma Cay.
At dinner the day after leaving Pipe Creek, at Terry Bain's Restaurant named Ocean Cabin on Farmer's Cay (10 nm from Black Point), Dan and I and Rosemary and Ross met Robinsong and Ladyhawke and decided to move on together the next day. There were to be four boats but SunDance 5( Rosemary and Ross) decided to turn back- no George Town this year due to engine problems that reappeared just before Rudder Cut. They would travel north to Florida and have their boat repaired where parts and mechanics are plentiful.
Important to March 2012 blog places are Long Island, where we sailed a race to- from GT, the Acklin Islands we explored a bit of with Jay and Barb, the Hogsty Reef and then passage to Great Inagua, which was our the jumping off point for Jaimaca- Sea Star's next adventure.
Best laid plans...
March 5, Sea Star and SunDance 5 set out one morning from Pipe Creek. Our destination was Farmer's Cay, about one day of travel. The very narrow rock-sided Staniel Cut out to the Carribean from Pipe Creek was wild, but we both made it through, happy to be on the move again. We hadn't been traveling more than two miles when we received a call from SunDance, our Buddy Boat, that their boat was experiencing motor difficulties. Dan and I decided we could tow their boat back in through the cut, and made the offer so they would not be stranded out there. They agreed and both boats set up the lines to do so. SunDance had a bridle which we took onto Sea Star and we began the tow. When we arrived back at the cut we were able to pull her safely through. We had alerted other cruisers to bring their dinghies "just in case", but nothing bad happened. When SunDance was again safely anchored we anchored, too.
Who owns those lovely islands? A few days later, in calmer seas, we went through the cut again together and all went well. We arrived at Farmer's Cay as planned, had a great dinner and made a few new acquaintances. We had a lively rum infused chat with the owner, Terry Bain, a well educated and self-educated Bahamian gentleman, instrumental in maintaining the regulations and goals of the Exuma Land and Sea Park with a small group of dedicated Bahamians. He was livid about the Bahamian Government selling prime islands to outsiders (not even Bahamians) and thought that short-sighted, for profit motive of selling off the most valuable lands in their country was selling the birthright of the children.
We also spoke of USA and Europian politics with much animosity toward the grabbing tactics of the super rich everywhere.
The hours posted on the Ocean Cabin's door. Like most businesses in the Bahamas, time and hurry are foreign to their business practices which can be disconcerting for the customers who expect something from them.
Looking out at the anchorage in Farmer's Cay. Terry has a few mooring balls to rent
as the current can be strong in between the islands.
Here is SunDance V where Dan and I parted company from her crew. They sailed back north toward Staniel Cay and had a rollicking sail. Good thing too, because they had lost the use of their engine, again. They made it safely to Black Point in the one day, and were somehow going to sail to the USA. We on Sea Star sailed, well, motored south down the Exuma chain and found a lovely little private pond in which to anchor for the night, then invited in two more boats; Ladyhawke and Robinsong. We spent a quiet night despite wind outside the enclosed pond, having time for a walk, cocktails on Ladyhawke and sailing on in the morning.
On to George Town and old friends
We sailed right with Robinsong, but Ladyhawke passed us quickly. They were heading for the Emerald Bay Marina instead of the anchorage in George Town Harbor as we were. After a few more hours of fast sailing, we entered the harbor and looked carefully for the entry reefs, which can be deadly if you stray to far from the marked (one red buoy) channel. Sea Star led the way and Robinsong followed. Soon we were passing the monument on Monument Hill and heading right to the heart of the beach crowd scene, Volleyball Beach. There were many boats, hundreds in fact, but still there were reasonable and clear spots to anchor. On the radio we heard the call to Sea Star. It was Jay from Jupiter's Smile. He had spotted us coming in and suggested there was plenty of room near him for both of our boats. PLUNK! Here we were in George Town, the place where anybody who was- or knew anybody- who went anywhere would stop before moving on out of the beautiful Bahama islands.
That night we were invited to a dinner on Jupiter's Smile and were introduced to the folks on a sister-ship to Sea Star, Adventura, and from then on it was activity after activity, dinner, music in town, town fair and then a dance put on by Rockin' Ron to celebrate the famous George Town Regatta Week. One of the Regatta activities is a race to Long Island, about 30nm east from George Town. At Long Island we would meet for a wonderful Bahamian dinner by Triphena, Regatta prizes, dinner and dance at Ocean Breeze Resort and from there our plan was to buddy with Jupiter's Smile and move on together.
At the small, private pond mentioned above, there live two lively pups(wild?) who apparently smell something about our dinghy that suggested to them that they explore it. Question was- would they give it back?
Here we have enlisted a couple from the boat Alibi to fix our genoa- right on the deck, and they tried hard.
Their Sailright machine.
After about two weeks in Playland we were Racing to Long Island with thirty other boats.
Doesn't Robinsong, also an IPY, from Florida, look handsome.-They went on to win their division, too.
Lots to do on Long Island. It's a big island and it had a Mutton Fest Agricultural Day that Barb and Jay attended before we racers arrived. The next "Mutton Fest" pictures are by Jay.
Detailed and delicate use of shells in sculpture...
The err...mutton.
Lion Fish are an invasive species in many places. Fishermen are regularly catching them. These pictures show how to deal with these venomous devils--Eat Them!
But be afraid, be very afraid- and careful.
Barb walking a beach near Clarencetown where the fest was
Competitive fish cleaning.....
Competitive conch cleaning...
This is the Thompson Bay Club that held our racers' "Welcome to Long Island" party and dinner.
Barb and Jay at our table
Jess and Robin
a large crab leg each.
Best dinghy dock picture ever!
Rockin' Ron starts the proceedings
Happy award winners. Dan and I came in first in our division and won rum and a hat and banner.
Of course no pictures as we went to the stage.
Another dinner with a different group on Long Island at Chez Pierre,
Defever yachts Motivator and Izzy R
Through the Comer Channel, around the tip of Long Island in 6' waves and chop, and about 20 miles back up its east coast we stayed two nights at Little Harbor. After a narrow, surf and shallow entry we headed left and anchored. What a spot! Nice beach walking, snorkeling and small Ridley sea turtles. After we left this anchorage-we had a bit of a delay to leave when we pulled up a huge bush with our anchor- and started toward the Crooked and Acklin Islands and Winsor Point. We entered the Bight of Acklins and searched out an anchorage near the Acklins.
Hooked by Kathy and brought aboard by Dan's expert gaffing in the
Crooked Island Channel.
Then filleted by both by turns, and after an hour of cleaning the boat
we had him ready for the freezer.
The magnificent male Mahi mahi was 54 inches long. Here his colors are darkening.
He has just had some straight vodka in his gills to kill......the pain.
No way to tell by the picture but we are now sailing through quite shallow water approaching the
Acklin Islands. It was like being on the Banks again with 8' shallow water. Dan and I had both
read a book about a doctor who had lived and worked the out-islands from his home in the Acklins,
, sailing between islands and practicing the best medicine he could. The book is filled with interesting
tidbits from his practice and that was one reason we wanted to explore the Acklins a bit.
Bahamas Chartbook we used for navigation. To the right on the chart and heading east would be the Crooked Island Passage about 40 nm from Long Island. Inside the islands on this chart where the red lines between circles (waypoints) are, is where one must sail to stay in sufficient water. We sailed into the Bight of Acklins, rounding Winsor Point. Once near the Acklins we started looking to anchor.
Remote and pretty, but poor anchorages.
We had to move a few times.
An old cemetery with tombs shaped like boats.
Some old and abandoned items. Life would be hard here.
No Spring- just dry bushes and dry mouths for us.
Cemetery out of place picture. Shows the boat-like shape of monument.
Great name; the Bay was lovely and we anchored there. Barb and Jay grilled some Mahi mahi on their boat.
OK we were tired. No restaurant, no little side of road store, so we hitched back.
Next day we did another walk to another place, Salina Point
Ocean View where we tried to eat. "Not now, maybe later"
We went back after our long walk and still no food and not open.
Local school boys
Ice Cream!
The bus stop for children
The next four pics are of Hogsty Reef, quite a good day sail off Acklin Island. It was a beautiful spot but quite rolly in the anchorage. We spent two nights, snorkeled, went to the little beach, had folks over for cocktails, beside Jay and Barb another catamaran came in. Surprising in such a remote spot.
One of two wrecks on the reef.
At anchor before we left Great Inagua, our last stop in the Bahamas and where we would check-out- Great Inagua is shown on the map at the top of the blog
Great Inagua downtown and store
Police Station and clinic
One of two Burrowing owls we saw on a walk to check out of the Bahamas at Great Inagua
as Barb and Jay are doing in this pic.
Anchorage. Can be a rough one.
And we are off to Jamaica through the Windward Passage. Should be three days.
We are sailing buddies with Jupiter's Smile, Barb and Jay and Wind Dancer, Ron.
APRIL IN JAMAICA- next
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