Sea Star's last visit on the Rio was to Texan Bay Marina for our last Texas chicken fried steak. We left the Rio for Bahia Graciosa after lunch at Ak' Tenant Restaurant and picking up our exit papers from Raul in Livingston. Dan and I motored the 11 miles out the sea bouy over the shallow Livingston bar then across the bay to Graciosa where we spent a quiet night tucked in behind an island while the wind blew 25 knots from the west. Sea Star, and Braveheart left the Rio in what we hoped was a short weather window that would allow us to begin our trip through the country of Belize and then on towards Mexico.
A bit of rain did come but our memory is not of winds, but phosphorescence around our two boats in the evening. By morning we did move on. As we left the protection of the Bay, the wind was still strong and we were able to move along slowly by motor until we managed to change the sailing angle and head more into the shelter of the mainland Belize after a rolicking sail.
Sea Star, and Braveheart left the Rio in what we hoped was a short weather window that would allow us to begin our trip through the country of Belize and then on towards Mexico.
Our first night out was spent in Bahia Grasiosa in a shallow, protected area to avoid forecast strong westerly winds. A bit of rain did come but our memory is not of winds but phosphorescence around our two boats in the evening. By morning we did move on. As we left the protection of the Bay, the wind was still strong and we were able to move along slowly by motor until we managed to change the sailing angle and head more into the shelter of the mainland Belize.
Our first night in Belize was in the harbor at Placencia where a quiet night was had after a rather slow and careful entry into the lagoon. We did not enjoy that friendly town of funky and fun restaurants because we were flying our Q flag. That means we have not checked in for immigration and were not allowed to leave the boats. We had decided to move quickly through the country. Cruisers had reported being charged a daily per person fee and increased and unpredictable fees for having a boat in Belize.
Moving through Belize we anchored at Sappadilla Lagoon, Bluefield Range a beautiful spot between two islands where I saw a lazing manatee. Unfortunately, the hurricane had destroyed the little fishing camp resort that had been on that island.
We visited Rendevous Cay and snorkeled while trying to chart a safe way by GPS out of that reef strewn area. We looked for the deeper water and then the channel out to the atolls; Turneffe, Glovers and especially for Dan and I looking forward to what we had been told was the gem of Belize,- Lighthouse Reef.
We decided to split off from Braveheart who wanted to go toward Cay Corker because they needed fuel. We had a great fish dinner on Braveheart when a local came by and asked us if we could use some fish. For a reasonable price of seven dollars we all ate, and Dan and I returned to Sea Star, leaving via the English Channel in the morning with the tiny sailboats the locals use to travel to and fish the reefs.
LIGHTHOUSE REEF
We did make the thirty nautical mile trip to Lighthouse and it was a highlight of the Belize trip.
We were able to snorkel a few times and see for ourselves what had caused other friends to be so enthusiastic about this area under the water and visit nearby Long Cay where there is a Red-footed Booby bird rookery. The water was extremely clear. On beginning our entry into the recommended anchorage to the south of the island we didn't think we could make it! The water was so incredibly clear that 8 or 9 feet looked like 2 or 3 when moving oh soo slowly over the corals and rocks! We followed the waypoints and after an hour of crawling over and around coral heads we were able to enter the anchorage. We had been supplied with a set of waypoints from a dear friend and they worked perfectly!
The water was very inviting and we had missed the ocean while we were in the Rio Dulce so that we went swimming right away, and managed to snorkel two more times when the wind allowed it. The fish were plentiful and we saw some quite large hog fish and snappers. We found huge coral heads and healthy soft corals making for exciting snorkeling. We didn't spy a lobster, though. Sea star was the only boat in the anchorage for those few days. When locals arrived to chat, they did have a few lobsters or conch to trade or sell. In this way I tried to mimic a recipe the same friend who gave us their waypoints had served to us-fried conch. Yummy!
As we were leaving Dan approached a local boat to ask to buy cleaned conch and lobster. Through that man we heard of a local spear fisherman who had been diving out on the outer reef and who had his foot bitten by a shark. The boat was looking for a motor launch to bring the man to Belize to the hospital. We never heard how it turned out but that is an example of how alone these hardworking fishermen and divers are.
We stayed a few days, visiting the surrounding islands.
On a little nearby island there is a bird rookery where we climbed an observation tower and I was able to get a few fun pictures of Red-footed Boobies and the Magnificent Frigatebird on display with its red chested display. The island had seen some damage from the hurricane but we enjoyed a walk with the dog who lived full time on the island and a chat with the Ranger. The caretakers of the preserve and rookery come and go, but the dog stays. He had just been removed from the little island a few weeks earlier as a named storm of hurricane force had moved over the island and toward the Capital of Belize, Belize City, causing damage and destruction. The Caretaker had been cleaning up the island ever since. Trees had been snapped or pushed over, but it appeared the birds were alright and breeding.
Enjoy a slideshow of our walk.
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| Lighthouse Reef |
From Lighthouse we waited for a decent weather window and headed for Isla Mujeres, Mexico, where we knew we would have to wait for weather appropriate to cross to the US. We began to wonder if we were going to make it back to MA for Christmas.
Two weeks after we were there, Doris and Tom on Footloose and Gene and Brenda on Queen Mary arrived at Lighthouse and spent a month there. I'm sure they all had a great time in this very special place!
We, unfortunately, could not stay at Lighthouse Reef until our friends on Footloose could arrive. The weather was not conducive for other boats to leave the Rio. Dan and I made the decision that an overnight trip to Isla Mujeres could be accomplished if we left right away, so we spoke with Braveheart by radio. We found they had been having engine problems and had put in to Puerto Aventuras, Mexico for repair. Jack was able to make a fix but for security for all we thought we could catch up to them in Cozumel before Isla Mujeres and go in together.
That was not to be. Sea Star did sail out onto the Chinchuro Banks where we were surrounded by squalls alternating with wind shifts. We sailed into Cozumel only to feel surrounded by cruise ships the size of cities next to us. We were not comfortable among them in our small sailboat and didn't like the anchorage as it was too open. As we moved back out into the channel, the wind was very strong and Sea Star was moving along at what felt to me a breakneck speed. The water was rushing under us and the motion was causing strange and loud noises below in the salon where I was trying to rest. Between the wind and the favorable current throughout the night we zoomed into the Isla Mujeres approach channel in the dark of night and had to wiggle our way into the anchorage after a few hours of waiting for light to improve.
ISLA MUJERES, MEXICO
Isla Mujeres was great fun. We anchored out one night and then moved into the Isla Mujeres Marina with Braveheart, who had already arrived, and some recently met cruisers, John and Kathy on Mystic Moon, a Selene trawler. We also met Kathleen and Roy on Islander, another trawler at the dock and the fun began. We walked, explored the town, shopped and Kathleen and Roy lent us their golf cart to shop for food and see the sights. We found the island interesting and a great place to visit. Entering the country of Mexico at Isla Mujeres was reasonably easy. An agent from the marina would have done the entry process for $100 plus the fees for Port Captain and Immigration. We did not use the agent and the process was easily accomplished. We did choose to use the agent as we left Mexico on Thanksgiving Day, to be sure all was in order.
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