From Hobbies (Cayos Cajones) to Guanaja
Sea Star said a reluctant “So-long, we’ll check for you on the Northwest Caribbean net” to Sonny and Kaye on Valentina after close to a month, and in company with Footloose and Queen Mary set sail to the Bay Islands of Honduras. Dan and I headed to Guanaja, the easternmost Bay Island, because we needed to check into the country of Honduras, and Footloose and Queen Mary to returned to Roatan.
Our three boats left the Cayos Cajones at 7:00AM on a Tuesday, wound our way out through the reefs and by the small Honduran islands where locals waited for the season to commence, lobster traps piled and at the ready. We sailed around the north side of the Cayos Caratasca, between the Hobbies and the Cayos Vivorillos. We put out our fishing lures, hoping for the luck the other two boats had on the way to the Hobbies from Roatan. Sonny called us repeatedly on the VHS to check the radios and said good-bye to the” Nina, the Pinta and the Santa Maria” as we sailed off downwind with various sails set out wing and wing. For Sea Star, no fish and 168nm later at noon on Wednesday we entered Binacca Town Harbor to begin our check in process after anchoring in the busy harbor. We soon had our dinghy down and headed into town, tying up at the municipal dock, then walking the few houses to the Port Captain’s office where our immigration and boat check-in were friendly, expedient and cheap. US$3.00
A Short Visit to Guanaja
Dan and I walked around the town, recognizing little from our stop there over twelve years previous so much had changed and been built up. We met a young local who answered our questions and led us around the town. We ate at a Tex Mex restaurant where, when we emerged, our young guide had been joined by an older boy who took over the “tour”. Guanaja is a small island, with Binacca Town the official Capital where most of the population, about 5 thousand people live. The homes, stores and buildings are set on stilts, many over the water’s edge. While we explored the part of the town on concrete walkways, the boys had pointed out at least two grocery stores, some small tiendas where one proprietor might sell more than one might imagine; TIGO phone and internet modems, stores for fruits or vegetables. Along the main walkway were lots of bars and restaurants. Above the water were tiny and orderly houses set six feet above the water on what looked to me like shaky stilts.
We knew at that point we should tip our guide so when I stopped to buy fresh bread at the bakery I never would have seen unless shown, I gave each boy a gooey cinnamon breakfast roll, hot from the oven which they were pleased to have-- but outside the store the older one asked for a “tip”. No problem, but we thought we had given them one with the roll! We then returned to the boat as the wind picked up and motored the two miles to the El Bight anchorage where the anchor stuck like in glue and we were “there.”
The next morning I was invited to go to town in a water taxi, a 30 ft. solid, wooden motorboat by another cruising couple. It was Thursday. “Everybody goes to town on Thursday” said Terry and Jonesy from Niki Wiki, because that’s when the boats come in with fresh vegetables and all kinds of supplies. Again, Binacca Town did not disappoint! I was able to buy lots of fresh vegetables and fruits with a better selection than I had had even in the larger island of Providencia before the Hobbies trip; carrots, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower, all kinds of peppers, strawberries, pineapple, tamarind to make a cold drink and also fresh, soft cheese for tacos.
Loaded down with our backpacks and canvas bags the three of us returned to the water taxi where to let off one of thee passengers the young driver took us around to a part of town that was still recovering after the passing of 12 years from Hurricane Mitch. A great amount of new building had occurred in that 12 year period. The hurricane hit Guanaja hard in October 1998 with high winds over the island for 24 hours. On our other Sea Star, our Willard trawler, we had passed by the devastated island after we motored out of the Rio Dulce, Guatamala a week or so after the hurricane. All along the coast there had been huge trees floating in the ocean and massive mud swirls at the mouth of each of the rivers, very dangerous to our travel. At that time twelve years ago the mountains, so enticing as we sailed in from the Hobbies in 2010, --had been stripped bare of all leaves and trees. The ground had been brown and to us it had looked like a bomb had gone off leaving the ground bare. It was good to see the green returning to the mountains, but destruction was still apparent in the town.
Apparently, as time passed on after the hurricane, many Americans and Europeans moved to these beautiful Bay Islands to purchase the land cheaply. They opened bars, dive shops, marinas and restaurants, and also built homes. Certainly more tourist trade is apparent on all the islands. There were few solitary evenings because there was always something to do on shore where we anchored or moored.
Our explorations of Guanaja were limited to our anchorage a El Bight, then Dan and I moved two miles east of El Bight to old Josh’s Cay (Graham’s Cay) where we had a great time anchored there over the Mother’s Day weekend. Dan and I came for the ambiance and stayed for the food, and stayed again for the food while enjoying the ambiance. Bird pets, fish pen aquarium, watching the local dolphin and swimming felt like a vacation from the rigors of cruising life. (Yes, I bet you all feel so sorry for us!)
Onward to the Island of Roatan
We received emails from Queen Mary and Footloose and we decided to see the rest of Guanaja some other time. We moved 28nm west on to the next Bay Island, Roatan, where the two boats were going to have another music night. This time Brenda, Gene and Doris were to play at a cozy and welcoming ex-cruiser’s restaurant/bar named Mango Creek Resort, in Port Royal, Roatan. The resort seemed to be a very low key eco-traveler place where couples, a group or just friends could have a blast with excellent snorkeling, diving, sea kayaking, or walking. A large group of cruisers, locals and friends of Terry and Patrice of Mango Creek Resort enjoyed the foot tapping country music inside the rustic, comfortable bar. We spent a few nights in Port Royal and moved on to the anchorage at French Harbor near the Fantasy Island Dive and Fishing Resort.
French Harbor is a hub of the “lots of things to do” parts of the Bay Islands. Directly in front of our anchored boat we could see out over the fringing reef where boat loads of divers and snorkelers we brought daily at 9:00AM, 12:00PM and 2:30PM by the two popular dive companies; CoCo Beach and Fantasy Island Resort and Marina, both top notch operations with good facilities. Near the Fantasy property was a local “zoo” with iguanas, a few monkeys, iguanas, a few birds; a scarlet macaw and two parrots, and well- more Iguanas! The dockmaster at Fantasy Island, Jerry, was very helpful and welcoming to cruisers providing barbeque, Happy Hours and Pizza nights at the resort.
Beyond entertainment was the access to the two huge, well stocked supermarkets, an ATM, a Gourmet meat and liquor store, a haircut for Dan—I thought I could replace my well-worn bathing suits somewhere here-- but along with Footloose we moved on to Jonesville and Bodden Bay. Jonesville is a hardworking community containing many Seventh Day Adventists. It is also a place where shrimpers’ well-kept motor trawlers smile from many docks. The anchorage is good and exploration by dinghy is easy inside the reef and into and through the mangroves. In one direction through the mangrove channel one ends up at Calabash Bight and the other way through the mangroves to Neverstain Bight. There are quite a few funky businesses in the town and around the bay like the “World Famous” Hole in the Wall Bar offering excellent barbeque and lots of laughs. One Sunday we met our cruising friends from motor vessel Tothil there and enjoyed the steak and lobster barbeque before they continued on their before hurricane travel to the US East Coast. There was Macgriffs where Footloose took Dan and I for the most reasonable and tasty enchiladas and pastelos and also BJ’s where BJ, a feisty, energetic female proprietor welcomes local and itinerant musicians on Saturday afternoons and jam sessions happen at a moment’s notice. Unfortunately for Doris who plays the guitar, Brenda and Gene from Queen Mary are off traveling and the music quality is suffering. I was trying to remember the melody and words to Doris’ songs and a harmonica player from Port Royal was trying to play with us but—oh well, we had a ball and BJ bought us a drink for our efforts.
From Jonesville we had a 23nm trip to West End, Roatan. Footloose led us to the Roatan Marine Park, their most preferred diving location outside the Hobbies, and, as we all walked around the tourist diving town, their favorite places to eat. Dan has had his diving gear checked; regulator cleaned of corrosion and air tank hydroed, and accompanied Doris and Tom on a relatively shallow dive while I snorkeled above. I looked down on them perhaps twenty five feet below me in the clear water filled with huge rock coals and saw the three of them working their way through quite narrow but not too formidable channels like canyons with a sandy bottom working up the coral rock sides where the fish were hiding. Of course in the marine park there is no spearfishing and so I had a leisurely snorkel. I like the marine life and coral here but both the Hobbies and Roncodor seem to have more of everything. We certainly can’t name everything we see, but we use the fish guide less and less.
I think the over twenty dive operations between West End and French Harbor are very careful with their environment but the impact of so many people is obvious. Cruisers have to use moorings supplied by the Marine Park Service at US$40 for a week. There are buoys to tie your dinghy onto when diving and snorkeling to reduce damage to the sea grass or coal bottom. Cruise ships arrive about two times per week, leaving bus loads of cruisers at various dive and entertainment expeditions. On one of the charter catamarans it seems they bring around 100 people to a snorkel site. From the shaded cockpit of Sea Star, it’s quite funny to see about half of the people in the water wearing the bright orange square shaped life vests. How a person can swim wearing one of those I can’t imagine! Many of the tourists at West End come for the sea kayaking, there are horseback riding rentals along the shore and of course bars and restaurants galore. From the looks of the red-tinted bodies some of those tourists go home in great pain!
slideshow of Binacca Town,Guanaja to Roatan-Bay Islands
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| Roatan-Guanaja |
more pictures in Roatan
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| Honduras |
On Monday Dan and I will continue on toward the mainland of La Ceiba and stop at the Cayos Cochinos, a less populated cay but still part of the marine park.
Our Stop at Cayos Cochinos
A rollicking sail in east northeast wind of 20 – 25 knots with four to seven foot seas had Sea Star moving along at as much as 9kn on the way to the mooring field at Cochino Grande. On arrival, we grabbed a park mooring and went for a snorkel right along the shore within the bay. We were pleasantly surprised at the variety of the fish and quality of the corals. The visit we made twelve years previously was disappointing as it was after Hurricane Mitch and the corals were bleached. Now the healing has more than begun and because Honduras designated the park as a protected area in 1993, the rock corals, the base of the entire panorama, have regained some life and color. Dan and I notice the increase in the soft corals; the feathers, the fans, the tubes and fleshy corals . Growing proudly from the colorful and intricate structures are the smaller growths; the aneminies, the worms, and the colorful, tiny “Christmas Trees in pinks and greens.
It’s hard to focus on the corals because there are a variety of reef fishes. More species variety than in other places; man grunts, snappers, chubs and the always sought after grouper. Today as we explored the reef we saw two large Queen Angels protecting their territory in some healthy looking elkhorn. Had I a camera she was lovely and just posing there. Always on the lookout to compare the fish with the Hobbies, we saw two HUGE hogfish-one would have fed eight people! The young operators of Plantation Beach Resort told us of many eagle rays, cobia, and sharks but we did not see them. The visibility was good, though it was difficult to see out into the deep blue past the shallower fringe and patch reefs. I’m sure with more in-water time (we easily spend two hours a day snorkeling in comfortable, warm water here) we would also spot the sought after fishes. We did watch a rather small turtle sit on sand at the bottom of a twenty foot rock until Dan swam down to it and it took off like a shot!
Tomorrow we have made reservations to eat at Plantation Beach Resort, and have chosen fish. Tonight we pulled a piece of fish from the Hobbies out of the freezer and bought a langosta (lobster) from a local who visited our boat with his large 30 ft. wooden cayuca, run by an old gas engine- it had no transmission and really sounded like an old Model T; putt,putt,putt as the two men approached. Dan decided that we should buy their lobster and help the local economy. I surely hope the booty wasn’t caught within the park boundaries but the lobster and conch were both just about dead anyway. Our last day we ate lunch at one of the other small islands in the park maintained by black people of Garifundi heritage. It seems because fishing is limited a new source of revenue had to be found. The source is tourists from La Ceiba who arrive, swim, eat a "typical" meal, interact (dance) and blast off in the speedboat they came in. What a contrast between the town cayucos (paddled or really old motors) and the tourist boats.
We’re beginning to really watch the weather. Many boats have already entered the Rio Dulce and are hiding for the hurricane season. Our plan is to go in in early July after a short Honduras inland trip.
pictures from Cayos Cochinos
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