Today Sea Star is anchored in White Sound, Green Turtle Cay. We are in about 9 feet of water in a high tide. Following the Bahamas Chart Kit and the Steve Dodge, “Guide to the Abaco” carefully, there has been enough water for our five foot draft all across the Bahama Banks.
Dan and I spent Thanksgiving in North Palm Beach Marina as we had just commissioned our Spectra 400 watermaker there. When it was up and running, and we saw a weather window suggesting very light wind for crossing the Gulfstream, we decided the time was right to go. In Vero Beach and at Fort Worth anchorage, all the talk between cruisers was about when to go, how to best cross, how to provision, the incredible 3 knots or more of current and how that threw any boat off course- although we are a sailboat we heard any northerly wind could be a problem, and the wind speed was supposed to become 20-30 during and after an expected low pressure. Southern Florida was going to be windy and cold we surmised from the NOAA forecasts, leading to uncomfortable Gulfstream conditions in the next few days. The stream is only 54 nm to the Bahama Banks from Forth Worth Inlet where we decided to cross, but all the guides suggested we really respect the current and be careful to avoid wind against current conditions.
To prepare to leave quickly we had a few things to do. We had to provision for as long as we could. Obviously, people eat in the Bahamas, but stores are supposed to be few and supplies limited, so a long-term cruiser tries to bring specialty and personally desired items for making meals when “on the hook” with few amenities. In our case we had to think Kitty Litter and Purina as well as filling the freezer. The exciting part of getting ready was to purchase new fishing gear, especially lures guaranteed to catch Wahoo, sailfish or Dolphin-Dorado---and I especially requested lures that would not catch Barracuda! The friendly guys at Fisherman’s Center on Blue Heron Drive, Riviera Beach fixed us up rigging with all wire and helping with selecting the arsonal.
Leaving through Fort Worth Inlet at 4:00PM on a Friday was almost surreal. It was a warm and sunny afternoon after many days of cool weather and boats of all sizes, from a cruise ship to little dinghies, were packed with partying Floridians as we traveled the few miles through the inlet and out into the Atlantic. As expected we encountered the Gulfstream about 5-8 miles out and throughout the 50-60 miles to the Bahamian Banks. The current set us to the north as we tried to travel west. Our winds were light and from the northwest, so we were able to motorsail with our mainsail out and maintain 6knots. We arrived on the banks at 1:30AM on a low tide, probably not the best time, but we traveled at about 5knots and were careful to avoid the shallows.
There are places to stop and to anchor, but watching the weather we felt we had to continue on to find a harbor protected from the south for the predicted strong southerlies by noon on Sunday so we kept on motoring along trying for Green Turtle Cay. As we checked our time passing Spanish Cay, a privately owned island, we realized that we would not make it to Green Turtle in time to check into the Bahamas on Saturday, but Spanish Cay had Immigration, also. By 4:00PM we were docked at Spanish Cay Marina and Resort and being checked in by a sweet Bahamian Custom’s officer.
We were dead tired but the evening that followed was exceptional. The Spanish Cay owner, Don and his crew made us feel special. “Come on in,” Don’s voice boomed on the VHF when we called to ask about dockage, “the hot tub’s ready.” When immigration was over about 30min. after docking, we headed to the Marina building and up the steps where we met an obviously relaxed young couple, sipping on Kalik beer. The four of us enjoyed the exceptional sunset with drinks from the Sports Bar while basking in the outdoor hot tub next to the pool. What a way to complete a passage! We then had a gourmet dinner in the restaurant at the Marina, enjoying the specialty cracked conch and black grouper. Sunday morning the wind was blowing 20-25 from the south, so we had a challenge leaving the Spanish Cay docks, but the crew held us off the pilings from the next dock over and we were off to Green Turtle Cay where we expected to sit out the Sunday night to Monday low pressure system. It’s a little cold, and a lot rainy, but we are here at anchor in White sound.
 |
| Bahama bound and first stop in two days |
No comments:
Post a Comment