Guana Cay, Abacos December 15, 2008

Our Dinghy too far from the water!

The beach outside Nippers

Sea Star, Windsong and others anchored at Guana Cay, Bahamas

December 15, 2008 Abacos, Marsh Harbor and Guana Cay
Hello Everybody,

Today Sea Star and Windsong are waking up at Guana Cay in light, easterly winds after a rather bumpy and raucous evening. We moved from Marsh Harbor yesterday around 10:00AM in moderate breeze, 15-23kn and had a sail to Guana about 8miles away in the Sea of Abaco in three foot swell. Our sail with reefed jib was over before we knew it. We pulled into the dark, turquoise water and anchored at Fishers Bay to the west of Settlement Harbor, in grass or maybe sand. There were other boats in the harbor first, so we were left near the entrance in a 13 foot deep spot where some swell wrapped around the island and rocked us when the wind blew stronger at night- but we did hold.

Strange things seem to happen when cruising. Where else could you be bailing out the family car (dinghy) as it was filled with water by another boat’s generator water? Dan, Jamie, off Windsong, and I went to explore Guana after we anchored. It was a lovely, sunny, windy day and Dan was in search of Patriot’s football. We jumped in our dinghy and visited Grabber’s, an island bar and grill, then continued up a winding path to Nipper’s, a second sports bar and grill. Nipper’s overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and has a rocky reef close to the beach. Yesterday, because of the windy conditions, awe inspiring waves were breaking on that reef. The entertainment of the afternoon was watching a kite sailor swoop and glide and jump at least 30 feet in the air while playing in Atlantic ocean surf. We watched him for about an hour off the deck, then had dinner at Nipper’s famous Sunday pig roast. The food was plentiful and tasty.

Then it was time to return to our boats before dark. We had to push and pull our dinghy back down the beach and into the water, as the tide left us high on the sand. We watched in amusement as another dinghy group tried with eventual success to return their dinghy to the water, but in doing so, two members of that group fell in the water and as they all laughed and had a great time getting back out to their boat, I started snapping pictures. They were anchored just behind us in a 46 foot Moorings catamaran.  Dan and I went to get an email to send the pictures of the adventure to them and were welcomed aboard. We chatted with them for about an hour and it was time for us to go back to Sea Star.

Well, when I looked down into our dinghy from the deck of the catamaran, I saw that our dinghy, tied onto the stern of their boat was chock full of water so that the gas tank, oars, my backpack were all about to float away. I thought surely it would sink and should have already sunk! I called to Dan and he jumped in and started bailing with a small dinghy bailer as the gear still floated around inside. We soon realized that someone on the catamaran had turned the generator on with us tied right where the cooling water shoots out from the boat-and therefore into our dinghy. With much laughter and joking someone else produced a bucket and one of the women and I jumped into the dinghy along with Dan to bail. When we were close to bailed out I realized our backpack had been soaked along with everything else. Dan started the motor, relieved that it did start, and we motored back to Sea Star in the dark, where I discovered I had more bailing to do from the front bow locker. What a mess! But everything is in the process of drying out and we met some more great people and had an experience not really possible on shore!!

Marsh Harbor, Great Abaco Island December 8, 2008

Hello Everybody,
Our third Abaco stop is at Marsh Harbor on Great Abaco Island. This is a popular stop for cruisers as Marsh is a larger town and has many facilities, such as groceries, shops and lots of restaurants. Sea Star is happily anchored in the harbor anchorage in 10-15kn winds with a gentle roll from the ferry boats. It's convenient to park the dinghy at various docks near the three marinas, if visiting their facilities, or at the public dinghy dock, to visit the town or walk toward the beaches.

Our first evening we visited a bar restauant called Wally's where we tried their special Wally drink, then we ate at Mango's and returned to the boat.

Our second evening,we joined up with a couple from another boat, Wendy and Dave from Florida, and we walked to one of the marinas across on the Sea of Abaco side, walked the beach and across their condo property and stopped at Snappas Restaurant for appetizers on the way back to our dinghies. I read for a few hours and went to bed around 11:00pm, very late for most cruisers, I hear.

Yesterday was just gorgeous and we tried a drink at a third hot spot- The Jib Room at Marsh Harbor Marina where we met another couple of retirees who are traveling on their Nordhaven motor yacht.

Marsh is a comfortable place and I can envision being here for Christmas, possibly. There will be a celebration in the town and a cultural event called Junkaroo with music and colorful costumes.

The weather is going to be windier and a cold front is approaching and will be over us around Thursday. The wind last night kept us awake at only 18-20kn We expect possibly 30 when the front comes through. The waves on the Atlantic inlets are rising, so the weather is not condusive to water things at the moment.

Enjoy your Christmas preparations. We are thinking about you all at this time and trying to work out likely visits ASAP.

Click on black square movie to open slideshow.  Open to full screen for best quality.

Behind a condo at Marsh Harbor

I could get used to this!

Christmas is coming to the Bahamas

On a walk with Wendy and Dave

Dan and I Bahamas 2008

Green Turtle Cay, Abacos, Bahamas Dec. 1, 2008

Hello from the Bahamas to Everybody,
Today Sea Star is anchored in White Sound, Green Turtle Cay. We are in about 9 feet of water in a high tide. Following the Bahamas Chart Kit and the Steve Dodge, “Guide to the Abaco” carefully, there has been enough water for our five foot draft all across the Bahama Banks.

Dan and I spent Thanksgiving in North Palm Beach Marina as we had just commissioned our Spectra 400 watermaker there. When it was up and running, and we saw a weather window suggesting very light wind for crossing the Gulfstream, we decided the time was right to go. In Vero Beach and at Fort Worth anchorage, all the talk between cruisers was about when to go, how to best cross, how to provision, the incredible 3 knots or more of current and how that threw any boat off course- although we are a sailboat we heard any northerly wind could be a problem, and the wind speed was supposed to become 20-30 during and after an expected low pressure. Southern Florida was going to be windy and cold we surmised from the NOAA forecasts, leading to uncomfortable Gulfstream conditions in the next few days. The stream is only 54 nm to the Bahama Banks from Forth Worth Inlet where we decided to cross, but all the guides suggested we really respect the current and be careful to avoid wind against current conditions.

To prepare to leave quickly we had a few things to do. We had to provision for as long as we could. Obviously, people eat in the Bahamas, but stores are supposed to be few and supplies limited, so a long-term cruiser tries to bring specialty and personally desired items for making meals when “on the hook” with few amenities. In our case we had to think Kitty Litter and Purina as well as filling the freezer. The exciting part of getting ready was to purchase new fishing gear, especially lures guaranteed to catch Wahoo, sailfish or Dolphin-Dorado---and I especially requested lures that would not catch Barracuda! The friendly guys at Fisherman’s Center on Blue Heron Drive, Riviera Beach fixed us up rigging with all wire and helping with selecting the arsonal.

Leaving through Fort Worth Inlet at 4:00PM on a Friday was almost surreal. It was a warm and sunny afternoon after many days of cool weather and boats of all sizes, from a cruise ship to little dinghies, were packed with partying Floridians as we traveled the few miles through the inlet and out into the Atlantic. As expected we encountered the Gulfstream about 5-8 miles out and throughout the 50-60 miles to the Bahamian Banks. The current set us to the north as we tried to travel west. Our winds were light and from the northwest, so we were able to motorsail with our mainsail out and maintain 6knots. We arrived on the banks at 1:30AM on a low tide, probably not the best time, but we traveled at about 5knots and were careful to avoid the shallows.

There are places to stop and to anchor, but watching the weather we felt we had to continue on to find a harbor protected from the south for the predicted strong southerlies by noon on Sunday so we kept on motoring along trying for Green Turtle Cay. As we checked our time passing Spanish Cay, a privately owned island, we realized that we would not make it to Green Turtle in time to check into the Bahamas on Saturday, but Spanish Cay had Immigration, also. By 4:00PM we were docked at Spanish Cay Marina and Resort and being checked in by a sweet Bahamian Custom’s officer.

We were dead tired but the evening that followed was exceptional. The Spanish Cay owner, Don and his crew made us feel special. “Come on in,” Don’s voice boomed on the VHF when we called to ask about dockage, “the hot tub’s ready.” When immigration was over about 30min. after docking, we headed to the Marina building and up the steps where we met an obviously relaxed young couple, sipping on Kalik beer. The four of us enjoyed the exceptional sunset with drinks from the Sports Bar while basking in the outdoor hot tub next to the pool. What a way to complete a passage! We then had a gourmet dinner in the restaurant at the Marina, enjoying the specialty cracked conch and black grouper. Sunday morning the wind was blowing 20-25 from the south, so we had a challenge leaving the Spanish Cay docks, but the crew held us off the pilings from the next dock over and we were off to Green Turtle Cay where we expected to sit out the Sunday night to Monday low pressure system. It’s a little cold, and a lot rainy, but we are here at anchor in White sound.

Bahama bound and first stop in two days