Saturday, March 20, 2010

UP IN THE AIR at Club de Pesca March 20, 2010

Up in the air at Club de Pesca, Cartagena, Colombia March 19, 2010

Sea Star and crew, Dan and Kathy are still in Cartagena, Colombia. Day to day fun and games continue with visits to other cruising boats, daily chores, restauranting-but we just took four days off to live up-in-the-air mechanical lift at the haul-out facility at Club de Pesca.

Dan, who is walking much better now-thanks for asking, "Sea Star recoated decides that needed her bottom from the waterline down to better repel the nasty is growth, barnacles, mussels and slimy grass, in these warm, tropical waters. She also the max-prop needed through hull fittings greased and checked. We arranged for a haul-out on Monday, March 15th. Today is Thursday and we are back in our slip with the job, Which we feel was a good one, completed.

The preparation for having the work done on Monday morning was the same as if we were going to go to sea, make an appointment with the boss and pay the bill, check the weather, tides and wind to determine feasibility of the maneuver, remove the plastic bag that was covering the Max-prop propeller to protect it from the above named is growth, open the cooling water is cock for our Yanmar engine, and close the sea cocks for the water maker system, generator and sinks.

As we climb out into the cockpit Monday, a bit later than the 8:30 time but not bad time by Colombian standards, we unplug our land lifelines-electricity and water hose, adjust the fenders to make sure that if we are pushed by wind as we exit our slip we do not do too much damage to another boat - and bring to life Sea Star's engine for the first time in quite a while. A feeling of relief occurred for both of us when she started up as Dan turned the key, just as she should do. Other days while listening to our radio we learned of many finicky engines that just start to refuse to allow their owners to leave Cartagena!

The next step is utilizing Dan's expert piloting, dock with two men aboard to cast off our two long bowlines attached to two different pilings by edging the boat slowly forward and sideways crabwalking her with the bow thruster to precariously balance the coiled lines on the poles and ready for our return. My jobs among others were to untie our neighbor's sailboat from ours while releasing the two stern lines from the cleats on the concrete piers and receiving them onto the boat. Meanwhile our two dockhands two additional lines attached around the base of our mast. For what we did not know until we arrived in the slip and realized that those two lines only when tied to the cradle would support and balance Sea Star while we were lifted.
After we were free of our dock slip, Dan drove the five or six boat lengths to the lift.

Then it became interesting as the dock on the lift equipment men shouted instructions in Spanish of course, to those of us on the boat and basically Dan was driving blind as men scurried around our deck grabbing, adjusting and tying lines multiple times until they were satisfied Sea Star that was centered correctly in the heavy, awkward and dangerous looking, black metal cradle. One pictures a soft and comforting item when one thinks "cradle." Well, not really. Along both sides of the sailboat the 6 "diameter cylindrical metal pipes of the cradle could be seen just a foot away from Sea Star's fiber girth. The wind was directly over the port beam of the boat, pushing strongly and making it difficult for the men to steady her in the cradle so the rest of the adjustments could be made and the metal floor lift the entire boat, all 18 tons of her, well out of the water. I hurried along those sides trying to install rubber fenders between the boat and cradle, especially on the four vertical columns Cubical that attach to the bottom plate of the metal floor.

At last a diver was sent into the water to install three wooden blocks of proper size and thickness to support the boat hull as it rests on the metal floor. That must have been quite a job with the boat gently rocking in the bulky cradle. The diver did not wear dive tanks, just a snorkel, mask and fins and I often gasped for air after trying to arrange just the right size and shape wooden block. He worked under the hull with others on the boat holding the bow steady and stout tying lines to the cradle

The final step was the Dockmaster pushing the button to ever so slowly lift the boat. Like Neptune emerging out of the water in her cradle Sea Star was pushed up out of the sea. At that point the dockmen told our interpreter, Oscar, that usually Gringos buy soda and snacks for the dock boys. We were especially glad To provide sustenance to the diver who by then was very tired. By about 11:30 dock our hired men were hosing to wash, and wet-sand the bottom and shapely hull of Sea Star To make a long story shorter, three men over three days full three roller applied coats of red paint at about Hempler ablative $ 130US/gal, using the full 5 gallons in the pail. Dan and I greased the Max-prop, spray-painted the propeller, shaft, and strap with zinc-coat paint Pettit (3 light coats), supervised and in general got in the way of our workers who were always all smiles. Then we let it all harden and reversed the process to move gingerly out of the cradle and back to our boat slip at the dock. If you were a fish you would know how great-looking Sea Star is now. We will be attentively watching to see if our barnacle and sea life incubation site is growing less friendly to the creatures with the copper residue applied.

There were of course inconveniences. Maybe the biggest was not being able to keep the refrigerator and freezer on as we had anticipated Because there was electricity. But with a keel-cooled refrigerator system it could not be run when out of the water. We had to impose on our fellow cruisers frozen goodies and buy ice from the gas station next door to keep the cool boxes as well as cook some foods from the freezer as they thawed. After cooking there was no way to use the water in the boat through the sink, the drains had to be shut to protect the drying paint, so water was dumped from a bucket off the boat and into the water from our 10 foot height. We were high enough to enjoy a hell of a breeze each night and see lots of new birds.

Every time I climbed the ladder my baseball-type cap would leave my head and land on top of the bimini. An inconvenience of the ladder connecting the boat to the dock below, was that the ladder stood inside of the cradle causing us to limbo under the cylindrical side greasy pole to arrive in the cockpit-difficult carrying the bags and bundles of tools, paints, rags , sandpaper and so on. down the ladder and back up at the end of each day. The dock men warned us not to leave anything off the boat. I hid the 5 gallon can with the last gallon of paint in a black plastic garbage bag like the Stealth bomber Camouflaged by the black metal cradle and it was still there for the last morning's work.
Dan's recent surgery made a bit difficult climbing ladder. He avoided the issue by making fewer trips up or down on the ladder, so there were more for me. I valiantly soldiered on with his jobs, sitting on a kitty-litter bucket avoiding kneeling or rolling around while working in tight spaces.
The last inconvenience when the water is out of the bathroom plumbing. Well, suffice it to say there are simpler systems than Vacuflush heads. The marina has full facilities also, so just one more trip down the ladder.

The workers at the marina have a concrete floored, roofed gazebo with picnic tables where they rest and eat their lunches. Where is this facility? Right beside the lift. We provided many happy hours of entertainment for the boat dockmen and especially the boys at exclusive fishing club who are hired by the dozen for the Colombian or Panamanian motor boats-washing, waxing and boat care for a full time job on one boat! They rarely see especially boat owners and owner's wives doing any of their own work. Someone at the club has hired an Français teacher for the boys. During their lunch break they practice how to interact and "eempof comuneecasheen" with the new crop of Gringos or English speaking owners. Instead of "like this" you ", after they pass the class by saying," Hauwa doeeng already? "They are doing great and we are all a little friendlier to each other on the dock as we understand how hard it is to learn to language for both sides. For the workers it may mean the difference between a menial job of boat boy and a higher paying job such as line handler or even a chance to become a "substitute Captain."
For me continuing to study Spanish might mean a reasonable haircut Next time, instead of the butcher job I just got.

Here are just a few "Lift" pictures.
Click on the blank square-not sure what happened.


Up in the Air-OL

Soccer! Feb. 2010

Fo’tbol in Cartagena February 25th 2010


As in all Latin American countries, fotbol is king in Cartagena. When your home team, Real Cartagena, is doing well in a championship everyone turns out-even three scared Gringos with our protector, Oscar. Oscar,helped us buy tickets to the Real Cartagena/Medellin soccer match in the local stadium. Real Cartagena was the number one team and Medellin the number two team in the Liga Postobon which is the Colombian "Major League".


He said the game was sure to be exciting but it could be dangerous for us, and of course Dan was on crutches at the time but we went to the game. If you think that security is tight at U.S. airports, you should see what its like at a big futbol game in Colombia. Thousands of Police and army special forces--many in full armored riot gear--looking very serious. They do a very thorough job of searching every person entering the stadium for guns etc.

When we arrived into the stadium the excitement was palpable. The brilliant colors of yellow and green dominated the stands. Vendors of foods, hats, twenty on top of one head, neck cloths,programs, beer, soda, chicolets gum continuously forced their way through the crowds to sell their goods. When the first goal was made by Real Cartagena we were showered with beer from above us in our bleacher seats. I stood up to cheer a play with others and spilled part of my beer on the guy in front of me- a quick turn, a smile and it was "play-on". The teams seemed evenly matched with certain players to focus on who were the stars. We had a great time!


Oscar suggested we get out of the stadium ten minutes before the game ended, but the excitement built just then and we took our chances. The game had exciting points throughout with two goals scored, one for each team! The Real team even played with a man down for awhile but still was close to scoring.

Near the end, the last five minutes, we thought surely the home team would score. Gary looked over at the few fans that had attended from Medellin to see them being marched out ten minutes early by the riot police to protect them! They couldn’t even watch the end of the match which ended in an unbroken tie.

Oh yeah, we arrived home to Sea Star safely and Oscar spent the night on the boat as Turbaco was quite a distance away.
Enjoy the photos and movie.
Click on the photo to see the slide show.

the game

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Barranquilla Carnaval February 15, 2010

Barranquilla Carnaval February 15, 2010
One of the festivals I heard about in Colombia quite a while ago is the Festival at Barranquilla, a large city of friendly and active people who apparently like to Party!! It’s a few hours bus trip from Cartagena and is held four days before ash Wednesday to have a good time before the restricted lent before Easter, as the once pagan festival has had a bit of a religious significance added, but not an overabundance as you will see in my pics.
Dan and I had planned to go for some time. We were going to go with a very small group and stay in Barranquilla for one overnight. Plans changed to a one day trip when we all found that reservations were not to be had. The prices would perhaps triple during festival and it was first come in the few hotels! We also had the small complication of Dan on crutches..and he decided not to go. (news flash: He has started almost daily therapy for 20 days and will be rechecked by his doctor soon. He’s sick of not being able to move and walk normally.)
Barranquilla was described as an awesome festival and after viewing pictures on-line I decided I would not miss it despite Dan’s not being able to go. It is a four day long festival that has a great deal of history – only I can’t figure the historical part out. There is a series of animals like the “marimonda”, spider monkey, and special dances such as the conga, gaita, cumbia , paleta and others that had significance to the various participating cultures, as well as salsa and champeta, marimba and others. It apparently was a slave festival of freedom and gaiety where “anything goes” was once the expectation. It has evolved into a presentation of blended cultural beliefs. One of them is that the King? Josalito dies of overdoing the partying on the last day of Carnaval and all the wives-every woman- mourn and cry. The last day of the festival is a funeral for Joselito. The Google translation to English from the website Spanish is very difficult to decipher. Check out the website. When it comes up it will be in Spanish, but Google will translate. http://www.lasmarimondas.com/historia.php THEN THE OFFICIAL SITE http://www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org/previo/tradicion.html if after the viewing of my latest set of pictures if you care about the history.
So Let’s Party!
Preparation: The day before there was an optional morning dedicated to decorating our tee shirts. Once we got the spellings of carnaval and Barranquilla correct it was all color and glitter after that. In my pictures Jan, our paint and marker supplier and artista extradinar, is modeling her hand-painted tee. Mine wasn’t quite as pretty, in fact it is rather pathetic-but I like it.

Two small buses arranged by Sharon and Jim picked up our group in the morning. Sharon added more glitter to our outfits by supplying any willing cruiser with a brightly colored bead necklace- she and others had been to other Carnavals like Mardi-Gras and Trinidad and felt we needed a day out of cruiser drab. The buses brought around thirty cruisers from the anchorage at Cartagena to the city of Barranquilla. We left at 9:00AM and arrived about 11:00AM under the watchful eye of our guide Rafael in bus number one and Alex in bus number two. Rafael was our guide. He told us a bit about the city and made it a point to suggest we whoop it up on the bus, asking if we knew any songs and if we wanted to stop for “Ron”! (rum- it’s 9:00AM- I want Dunkin Donuts but that wasn’t available either, of course.)

Rafael asked if we had any questions and I asked about the figure called “marimonda”, the symbol of the festival- and got a very vague answer. I chalked it up to language barrier and asked a follow-up question about the origin of the festival. That brought up the reference to Joselito and something about slaves, but was another not too helpful answer and so I figured I’d look it up later. I did look it up by following the link above. What a shock!

We had been warned to carry no more than was needed with us, not even to take a camera was suggested. “Pick pockets are everywhere! They might slash your pocket to take anything you have.”
http://colombiareports.com/colombia-news/culture/8267-murder-rate-low-at-2010-barranquilla-carnival.html

Barranquilla Festival includes parades, with costumes and floats. None of us were going without a least a pocket camera, although my friend Cindi do lose hers from her pocket! We stuck the family money in our bras and in our shoes, tied cameras to a belt-loop and hoped for the best. The ringing sound of “stay together, stay together “was heard as we exited the buses, were supplied with a cellphone number for Rafael and herded on down the busy street toward the location of the parade route. (We had been told not to have extra stuff so few people had defied that order and brought their cells.)

We had arrived early and were looking to find good seats for the 1:00PM start of the awaited parade. A set of plastic chairs was rented to us for the equivalent of $2.50 each. No problem, it was under a red Aguila tent, so we’d have shade-NOT! The locals were charged $1.00 for the same chairs after the military stationed every few feet along the parade route bodily picked up the red tent and moved it way back and the beer venders and locals moved in, leaving our chairs near the front but no cover at all. By waiting by the parade barrier fence in the sun, I was able to perch myself right up front.

Since the beer vendors moved near us, and by that time it was 1:00PM, there was nothing to be done but have a beer and buy fried food. Then have fried food and a shaved ice treat. Then……what?????

I was just standing there minding my own business gawking, when one of the fun lovin’ locals -Whoosh! sprayed me and lots of others with a shaving cream like stuff from a can. Soon it was every man, woman and child for themselves as the spraying continued with sneak attacks for the next two hours, ammunition supplied by willing vendors of the foam and silly string stuff, leading up to the carnaval parade we had been told was to step off at one- it was 3:30PM before the first marchers danced down our way. Foam fun, drinking and eating all made the wait in the hot sun more bearable, not shorter.

Then young boys, faces painted black with shoe polish, circled around the group menacingly, carrying sticks. The “game” is to scare you into giving them some change or they will put black polish on you! We heard from other cruisers it was really harmless, although in the later evening you could expect the participants to be older and carrying machetes! “Just go along with it, maybe hug them”, the experienced festival goers said. They had brought towels because they knew about the foam, the finks!

When the parade did finally start, it was worth all the wait and more. I had a fantastic time and was totally awed by the Carnaval Fantasy parade; the costumes, the energy, the music and dancing, the shaking, shimmying and champeta, and the beauty of the participants who put on a 100% show over the three kilometers of the route. In my pics you can’t see the bandaged feet, the broken high heel of the dancer in red, the chafing costumes.

But from behind the fence where I was sitting, what I saw was (an excuse for some of my photos)- Colombianos young and old excited about giving everyone the best show possible!

Viva Colombia! Viva Barranquilla! were the words of the day.

Enjoy- especially the video clips!!

Don't forget to double click each picture for a slide show!!


First the cruisers and the crowds..
Barr- Crusiers and crowd


Choosing a Queen is important in Colombia.

Barr-The Queens


The first part of the 3 hour parade

First Parade- Barranquilla 2010


Hopefully the videos load so you can watch without gaps
Barr-movie clips



Finally the second part of the parade

2nd half- Baranquilla

Thursday, February 11, 2010

FUN AND GAMES AGAIN IN CARTAGENA February 11, 2010

FUN AND GAMES AGAIN IN CARTAGENA February 8, 2010

Last night (February 7) was the Super Bowl for American football. A group of at least fifty cruisers went to a local pizza hangout because the manager/owner said he would rent a 52inch TV, which made two TV’s in his open air restaurant. Oh, and he promised the cable would be on- not like other places people had tried to watch playoff games.

Dan and his crutches got out to the road. We rented a taxi for the four city block trip to Paucho Y Guillos. Lots of friends were already there at other tables but we sat where we could as America the Beautiful and the Anthem were sung. Dan watched the game, chatting with the other guys and hoping for the underdog Saints.

I went from table to table, chatting with people, and ordered our drinks and pizza. I chatted with Judy, the Texan who in my last post I wrote had given shots to her cattle. She also was, before cruising as crew, a telephone linesperson, and doesn’t mind climbing sailboat masts.

I bought a beer for the aforementioned nurse who gave Dan his shot and just by chance had the previous night helped another cruiser to an ambulance. He had fallen in his cockpit and went unconscious.

I talked with my friend Suzi (mentioned in other posts as social director)who was yelling when everybody else was-but hates football. (Kinda like yours truely)

Well, it wasn’t the Patriots – I thought about how we always had our friends and our boys around for a Super Bowl party, made chili and pigged out. At Paucho Y Guillos there was a gambling pool like we would have at our house- I still didn’t win! The game progressed and at the end of the third quarter before the Saints big push, we left, thinking it’s the Colts all the way. When we got back on the boat and Dan checked on the internet- Surprise, surprise! He was able to see bits and pieces of the play later on the internet. When the crowd came back to the marina, all excited, we were sorry we had left!

There’s another (well, lots of other) good place to go for a quick and cheap meal. One night on the dock we gathered for a fried chicken and baked beans get-together with Frisby Chicken-Yum!

Other cruisers on the Club de Pesca dock invited us to go to the “Shwarma” place. “Uh, ok. What’s a Shwarma?”
“Well,” answered another Judy- this one makes it her point to know all the cultural events in the city and tells us about the movies, fiestas and the schedule of the Music festivals, as the newspapers keep things like that a secret, “a Shwarma is like a Gyro. You choose pollo or puerco or mixto with chicken and pork. It’s tightly rolled up in a kind of pita bread thing and they give you four great sauces to put on. One is garlic mayonnaise, pineapple and sweet, flaming hot sauce and mustard based.”

In pleasant company we ate our first of many meals of Shwarmas. At 8,000 pesos or $4.00US why bother cooking?

Speaking of cooking- yes we do eat many meals on the boat. Sadly, they don’t do breakfasts here like we are (were) used to in the States, so all breakfasts have been aboard except for the hotel when Dan was operated on. There they served us scrambled eggs with tomato, fresh fruit juice and fresh fruit; papaya, mango, great coffee and bread. But we’ve not seen or heard of a breakfast place where one could buy a breakfast like that. On board we alternate between pancakes, French toast , egg dishes and cereal. We haven’t found a good bacon for a long while. It’s usually pressed ham or chorizo-not bad but different.

Since Dan isn’t walking right now full provisioning ; buying gallons of drinking water and food is what I do. Also I haul our laundry to and from the same grocery store as there are no self-service Laundromats available. Two ladies take the time to insert a plastic stem with a hand-written number written on paper on it into each item of clothing; underwear, socks, kitchen towels, whatever. Then, meticulously, the clothing numbers are regrouped, the items counted and you go home, hopefully with everything ‘cause the paper numbers do fall off in the wash, to snip off each stem to wear the clothes. Labor is cheap.

The nearby grocery store is not a Stop and Shop but certainly food is available but costs as much or more as in the States for anything packaged- like pasta noodles are $3.50 and the poor quality bacon $12.00. We had supplied well in Panama but are lowering the mountains of cans slowly and more meats and fresh products are needed. After I shop I can have a young employee push my shopping cart all the way from Carulla to our boat- a distance of perhaps a mile and pay her $2.50- and she is thrilled to be making more money than she makes at the store. I don’t see how the locals can eat for what they are paid.

The internet is available here for a fee. Both Dan and I spend probably too much time on-line in frivolous pursuits. Dan is a political junkie and Sarah Palin is driving him insane as well as the stupidity and gullibility of the American public.(as he sees it) I surf a few cruising blogs of friends, do my blog and pictures which takes a long time and now Steven has gotten me on Facebook so he can put pictures there and stay in touch. If you let yourself you could spend days on Facebook and UTube videos. I became all excited when the name of an old friend came up as wanting me to call her. She had emailed, through Facebook, simply a cell phone number. I called her number on Skype - to find at the other end a lovely woman with the same name as my friend from Oregon not Colrain who thought she was being scammed! She was really nice about it- she thought I was someone else, too. Her old friend trying to find her!

One more thing cruisers do to amuse themselves is Mexican Train dominos every Sunday. The game of matching little dots goes on in relative quiet for about three hours. The players have to move tables after four hands to mix up the groups. Some of the better players can be heard slamming their ivory dominos onto the table for emphasis. After the games the lowest score is recognized as the winner and the person with the highest score "had the most fun" when the results are brodcast by radio on Monday morning.

John and Suzi celebrated their 19th anniversay on Sea Star. They came over to visit Dan and give us something else to do to counteract the bordom of staying aboard so much. They taught us a card game they call "Diminishing Cards." The first hand 7 cards are dealt to all. You bid how many hands you will be able to take, as one card is played by each player in a hand. If you don't make your bid you are slammed with points. The hand with 7 cards starts with a 10 point penalty. The hand with 1 card carries a 70 point penalty. We had fun and the guys won.

Soon we'll have more than physical therapy and Spanish lessons to look forward to. I'll log then!

Monday, February 8, 2010

Lounging at Club de Pesca February 7, 2010

Lounging at Club de Pesca February 7, 2010
Sometimes paradise is just like being land based with its problems; such as aging and finding a place to live. Lately we have had other things rather than cruising on our minds.
Sea Star remains at Club de Pesca. It’s really comfortable. For a small fee (he! He!) we can use our air conditioning, lounging below while the hired boat boys clean and polish Sea Star and Dan heals and ices his knee from his recent arthroscopic knee surgery.

In my last post I mentioned that cruisers often come to Cartagena to access medical services such as dentists and general health care check-ups, and also schedule Lasik eye surgeries, and plastic surgeries of all types. If one has the money health care is available, and quite a bit cheaper than the “same” surgery elsewhere.

Unfortunately, Dan had one knee that was not "right" and causing him pain when walking. He had it looked at when we were in MA in November, had a shot of cortisone and went back to Panama. When we arrived in Colombia he knew he had to do something about it.

I’ll abbreviate a little here but the steps went something like this- He went to one doctor, a surgeon named Valiente ($40.00) who suggested an MRI which he had the next day( $420.00). Doctor suggested surgery.


Went for a second opinion($50.00). Was told to take some medication for a week and therapy and see the doctor again in two weeks. The result was surgery recommended.


After Christmas and New Years struggling to walk around the Walled City, Dan decided- ok, surgery -and decided to go back to MA to utilize insurance there. We would need a place for the boat, tickets, a place to stay, and rental car but we would be “safer” with the US standards so we believed.


After mentioning plans to more than one other cruiser we were given lots of moral support and heard stories-all positive- about the medical access in Cartagena. In the meantime we found a slip for Sea Star. We re-considered our options and decided to go ahead and have the arthroscopic surgery in Cartagena with the second Doctor at Medi-help Clinic in Boca Grande, a clinic with a good reputation that encourages and helps foreign tourists who are medical shopping.


NEGATIVES for us were:

* We didn’t get to see our friends and family in Massachusetts where three nurses are in the family.
* We had some confusion because of our limited Spanish language ability.

* Staff at the clinic do not speak English at all except one office girl during the day and another young man at night. When Dan ran a fever of 101.7 F and we tried to contact Doctor Rivera, his cell phone wouldn’t work and we had to call the clinic. The language barrior was significant.

* We live on a boat- with stairs, that rocks.

* The hospital Johny kept untying and outpatient wards seem to be unisex.


BUT POSITIVES were everything else:

* Dan is healing well, working on his muscles and planning our next adventures!


* Total costs of operation, Doctor fees, anesthetic (local) and medication under $2000.00. Under my HNE insurance the same operation is $14,000!

*Doctor Edgardo Rivera Martinez is very competent and caring. He has presented at conferences in US and spoke enough English to make us comfortable with his recommendations.

* The Medi-help Services Clinic was clean, seemed well equipped, efficient, well staffed with very helpful people.

*Our Spanish tutor, Oscar Quintana, gave up his entire Saturday from 10:00AM to 5:00PM to support us. He stayed with me, giving me my regular Spanish class and waited during the operation, and three hours of recovery time. He ran out and purchased the crutches and medication, and helped us get Dan into our hotel room when we arrived there by taxi. I was worried although we had reserved a first floor room, as there were three large stone steps and no railing at the entrance to the hotel. Dan did fine getting in.

*We stayed at a great hotel- Casa de Las Palmas for three nights and a lavish breakfast was included- a place I could walk from to check on the boat.

* IT'S ALL OVER- but for the hard work Dan has to do to strengthen his muscles around the knee and see if the pain of movement goes away- We are very hopeful.

I’ll just mention one episode that seemed kind of funny to me, a difference between the United States and Colombia. Dan was still wearing his Johny, cute blue hair cap and blue booties during recovery. When he was to be released from the clinic he was handed a prescription for pain medication and for three days worth of injections to prevent swelling in the knee. When Oscar returned to the clinic with the medications, the prescription read, “inject one time a day for three days.”

Duh…Who was going to Inject?!

The young and pretty nurse(remember-lots of plastic surgeries are completed in this clinic) at first could not understand us, then could not understand our concern. I confessed that I had never before given an injection-and the nurse looked in disbelief. She agreed to administer the first one; I could watch and thus be ready to give numbers two and three.

She took Oscar and me behind the curtain where Dan was waiting for his intramuscular injection. She took the needle (sold at the corner drugstore as part of the prescription!), broke the vial, loaded the syringe - and meanwhile Oscar is translating.
She showed me how to find the proper spot, to be careful about hitting a nerve, getting the air out of the syringe - now I’m really getting nervous!

"Draw a line across the rear and a perpendicular line where the nerve is and a 45 degree angle from that then get ready to insert the needle in the corner of what would be a square"…..

“yeah, OK”, thought I. "Maybe I can do this."

"But be careful because the medium is oil and you have to draw back the syringe like this until a little of the liquid comes out and you must release the plunger really slow or it’s going to hurt a lot and just keep it steady, but not too fast and" …..

“No way,” thought I “I really cannot do this!”I seemed to recall when my sister, Barbara, was studying to be a registed nurse and she told me "Even the orange screamed when I practiced my injections!" This was to be my first needle and given on my handicapped husband. Not a good idea.

Well, shot number 1 was done- and before it was time for shot number 2,we had two options. I had located a cruiser nurse, and another great cruiser woman from Texas who used to shoot up cattle.

The nurse, who is a friend, came to our hotel and gave the shot and all was well. The Doctor gave the third shot in his office and took the used disposable syringes off my hands. I wasn’t going to leave them in a hotel wastebasket!

When I asked the Doctor if many patients in Colombia have people in the home to give them injections he replied, “Yes, it is very usual.”

“Well”, I said to Dan, “it is Colombia after all!” My reference being to the narco-trafficers or users we hear are everywhere in the cities.

The arthroscopy was on Saturday, and we stayed off the boat until Tuesday afternoon after Dan's Doctor’s appointment. We had a taxi bring him close in to the Club de Pesca where, with the crutches, he could walk down the dock about 10 boats to Sea Star. I pulled the lines in to bring the side of the boat close to the finger pier and he could step on to the rail, then hold on to the bimini supports while easing into the cockpit seat. After that it was through the hatch, sitting down and lowering himself the four steps and he was back aboard safely.


A few more weeks on the crutches, probably some physical therapy and we’ll see how things are with the movement. Next post - back to fun and games in Cartagena.

Pics of hotel, and Dan!

Lounging -Colombia-OL

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

RESTING AT CLUB DE PESCA, Cartegena, Columbia January 19, 2010

Club de Pesca, Cartegena, Colombia January 22, 2010


January 12th, Sea Star entered her new temporary home in beautiful Club de Pesca Marina. We are stern into the concrete fixed dock and tied to two pilings from the bow. We are in the marina for a few weeks to have Sea Star, who was looking a bit grungy, cleaned as there is fresh water and electricity available here. There are industrious workers who clean and polish very nicely. The man we hired, Estuardo, has children in the Univercidad de Cartagena and works for a modest amount per day. Sea Star has not looked this clean and shiny outside since we stopped in Maryland at Gratitude Yachting Center. We have other things to work out, too. Should Dan have arthoscopic surgery and if so, where?
Where will Sea Star sail to next? and do BMW motorcycles have more fun? These issues will be discussed in later postings, maybe.


We continue to enjoy the city sights, sounds and activities. There are always festivals and fiestas in Columbia. One of the larger ones is later next month in a city named Barranchilla. It's supposed to be a wild three-day festival. We think we will go for a day as it is obvious that every hotel, motel (we've learned about them), and Bed and Breakfast type place has either been priced WAY out of our league or was "unavailable" for the time of the festival. What the proprietors seem to do is not take reservations, and then just charge whatever price they want to to some lucky hotel seeker. I'm really looking forward to a great parade and show and a long day!

Throughout the month of January there has been a fabulous Music Festival, a classical music program with the theme “La Magia de Mozart”, involving entertainers, many well known world-wide. The concerts were held in or near magnificent architectural backdrops; churches, halls and in beautiful outside venues in the Walled City. A lovelier backdrop it’s hard to imagine.

San Pedro’s Plaza includes what used to be San Pedro’s convent, the beautiful church, what looked like some apartments above a large restaurant restored to Colonial splendor, and in another building on the other side of the square is the Museum of Modern Art. The square still contained its Christmas lighting and during the concert the video recorders and perhaps TV cameras provided plenty of light to see the performances as well as the crowds.

The concerts were magical! Dan and I attended one of the 10:30 at night ones that included famous Columbianos; a guitar soloist Ricardo Cobo, followed by the Bahia Trio with a lively Caribbean beat, and a rowdy, fun, small orchestra of eight called Porto Candelaria who actually played (among other instruments) the plastic bottle! With the encores the music went on to 12:30 AM! Remember-cruiser midnight is 8:30, so we were tired but that was a January highlight for both of us!!

At other concerts, a group from the London Symphony has performed as well as Sahnghai Quartet, celloist Alisa Weilerstein, violinist Bella Hristove and many others, for free or close to free.


The last night of the festival I decided I did not see as many of the performances as I had hoped to. That night, with a friend, I attended the Mozart Requiem,K 626 with four wonderful soloists and the London Symphony. As before there were plastic chairs, maybe 500 of them in the square totally filled with concert goers, mostly Columbianos, and hundreds more of us hoping to hear the concert were standing next to the fencing around and behind those seated. The people were dressed in their finery and all, especially the women, looked gorgeous and entry was free.

The Requiem music was very moving, but the irrepressible spirit of Cartagena kept popping through in the more subdued parts. There was a Marimba Band with drums and flutes marching in a nearby street on one side of the open square where the outdoor concert was on—then on the other side a salsa club’s music was spilling into the street. The professionals never lost a beat nor let their eyes wander to the distractions. The piece was strong enough to overshadow the other sounds for the most part, and the eleven bongs of the church bell added to the dirge at 11:00PM.


From our berth at Club de Pesca it is an easy walk to the Old City and every time I go, there is more to discover. There are vendors, exclusive shops, at least four museums (we haven’t had energy to hit one yet), exciting plazas and restaurants of all types and prices. Cartagena is known for its emeralds and as you pass store windows, the jewelry gleams. We did explore one museum where very old emerald pieces were displayed as well as cave walls recreated so that the visitor would get the idea of how the various kinds of emeralds are mined.

There is an interesting mix of old and new here. Along the one half mile of waterfront is a meandering brick walkway where people stroll and powerwalk or lounge on the park benches during the day and later the wide walkway is use for running and in-line-skating classes for the kids, and baby stroller walking. In the evening there might be street music for the adults that we can hear from our boats. This area is new and park-like and contrasts with the streets of the Manga area where the marinas are located and we mariners are cautioned about pick-pockets and worse. We have not felt in the least threatened but about once a week a dingy and motor is stolen and you hear of some crime.


The brick walk described above meanders along the Porto de Cartagena, the cruise ship tourist stop, the anchorage to Club Nautico and through a city park, to an old fort finally arriving at Club de Pesca-


Quite near, a short taxi ride that costs $5,000 pesos-about US $2.50 there are two malls to rival those in the US where the shopping is great and the food court, intriguing. We were able to see the new movie “Avitar” in 3D. Another of the areas of Cartagena is Boca Grande where the high rise buildings you see in my pictures of the anchorage are located and many rich Colombianos have condos. This is the area where cruisers often need to go for Doctor visits. There are modern dentists’ offices, lots of specialty doctors such as plastic surgeons, orthopedists and laser eye clinics. Many cruisers feel the out of pocket cost is manageable and the care is superior to their US facilities, so they chose to have their care in Colombia. We are all astounded when the doctors freely give out their cell numbers and when you call- they actually answer and speak to you directly to make appointments and such.

Some things are expensive but some are very cheap. Cruisers here are getting all kinds of work completed as needed for reasonable prices. Some have added inside woodwork in boats, hard dodgers, or canvas projects such as biminis. Some have pulled their boats out of the water and redone the hulls or painted, others have pulled all their chain and anchors and regalvanized them. We haven’t needed too do much. We have had some electrical work completed, replacing the cable up the mast to install our new radome, replacing our VHF radio mic in the cockpit and installing a remote for the Sirrius radio- all due to the lightning strike back in July.


What is next? We’re not sure yet. We’ll be here a while and perhaps go on a trip to a lovely island where we can SWIM again, the Rosarios. At the Rosarios you can snorkel, see an aquarium that is reported to be great and there is an aviary that has many species of birds-so we’ll see when we feel like getting off the dock and going! It’s fine for now while we sort out some things that still need doing. Meanwhile our Spanish is improving a bit-geeze it's hard work to learn and retain a language. At the dock we run our air conditioning. It's hot in Cartagena during the day. The boat heats up until breathing becomes difficult, then we close up and put on the AC for relief. Later in the day the breeze comes back and the nights are usually comfortable to sleep.

Here are some pics of the activities we have been doing lately. Sorry about the quality of some.

More sights - Cartagena

Monday, January 4, 2010

AFTER CHRISTMAS & NEW YEARS January 4, 2010

Christmas came in Cartagena and the bangs and flashes were seen and heard all the way to Ano Neuvo and beyond- at 2:00AM and 3:00AM this morning, January 4, intensive fireworks were heard from the town near the anchorage yet again! I think the first fireworks to welcome Christmas were on December 7th.

Leading up to Christmas there were the fireworks, and beautiful light displays containing pouffy ribbons and bows and lighted blow-up characters that we walked and saw, especially in Old Town. The people were very friendly and jovial, (maybe a tad enubriated) everywhere-though liquor is expensive here.

Cruisers did their part to celebrate and uphold their home traditions. Some cruisers had family or friends visit over the holidays but most of us just got together and had fun.

On December 19th there was the Christmas Ball with DJ music and an attempt at Salsa dancing by Gringos in a converted hamburger haven-you'd be surprised what a little green cellophane can do for a place!

On December 24th Sea Star got together with friends on Cabaret, Foreiner and Endorfin for a Christmas buffet on Cabaret's upper deck.(they're a motor trawler) I made artichoke-cheese dip and a pork shoulder I thought was a ham to contribute. (Damn, I really have to learn more Spanish)

December 25th at 4:30PM we were on our way to the Christmas dinner planned and organized (kinda like hearding cats!)by again, Cabaret.
Since the Club Nautico did not have a space- or a place- remember my last set of photos of deconstruction? Suzi and John found a place at a backpacker hotel and the planning began.

The food cooked and brought by the cruisers was excellent. There were many kinds of salads and vegetables: my green lime jello salad, tossed salads, Waldorf Salads, tubuli salad, yams, sweet potato, squash, mixed brocalli and califlower. Dan and I served maybe 75 people. I served the mashed potatoes. Each cruiser was to bring food for 15 people, so all I had to do was shuffle pretty bowls. Dan and Bill had to serve turkey. They were told not to honor requests--but everyone got what they wanted and there was enough for seconds--then free for all!

After dinner part of our entertainment was a "treasure of the bildge" gift exchange. Cruisers grab something from the boat, wrap it and hope somebody takes it home, so it's not on your boat any more. People are given a number when a gift is put on the table. Numbers are drawn at random and when your number is called you can open a new gift from the gift pile or grab one someone else has opened (and maybe stashed away).

My first choice was some DVD's, then it was exchanged for vanilla body lotion, but finally I came away with two brass hooks to install on Sea Star and a darling little girl was thrilled to open my donation of a red dish towel and Christmas snowman pate' spreader! The gift everyone wanted was T49, a spray can of corrosion block, or a 12 volt clip on cabin fan. The last gift that noone wanted and so it caused lots of trading was cigars! A good time was had by all who understood the game or played fairly. Those EU sailors really didn't know what hit them!

The rest of the evening we tried a Christmas sing along and a pair of cruisers who play instruments and sing well, entertained us.
Others who did not sing so well but did have the urge to belt it out were passed the mike. Suzi from Cabaret and Kerry from Coconut teamed up on Proud Mary, Miguel who hadn't touched his guitar since the sixties tried to remember the chords to folk songs and Mark played bongos. Then we all grabbed out still unwashed dishes and hailed taxis to return to our boats.

As for Christmas morning when Santa should have come, well.. what he brought was lovely barnacles! Neither head (toilet) would hold its vaccuum charge. It required Dan going into the not so clean water with a screwdriver to push off the little devils, and cleaning the discharge where barnacles had grown and plugged the outlet.


So.. we had the boat apart anyway and started running the cables for the new digital radar and Clarion radio remote that had been damaged by lightning way back in July. The path the wires had to be fed through by a metal wire snake was from the pedistle outside, into the lazarette, down into the aft cabin and under two lockers, over the engine compartment, under the floor near the sink, through two totally stuffed compartments under the sink and under the generator and up through the shelf, into the electronics boards. This took two full days and the sorting of those lockers still isn't completed!
There are a few pics of the condition of our boat on Christmas day!

Ano Neuevo is as important a time in Colombia as in the US. We had looked into going out to a restaurant where there would be local music. There were many places advertised but the cost was as much as in the US probably $150.00 a couple or more for the evening. Our young twenty-five year old Spanish teacher suggested that we all visit his home town of Turbaco and go to a bullfight, have a wonderful dinner, listen to live music and attend the yearly fiesta on the Plaza and all this would be less money and more fun. We were certainly game especially when Oscar suggested he would meet us and get us on the correct bus. We decided to stay the night as there were hotels in this town of 100,000 people.

And that is what we did! The bullfight movie shows some short clips I took and meshed together using a program. I was entranced by the beautiful children. The parents seemed very indulgent and the kids were fed and bought anything they wanted. Of course there were charactors in the rickety and bouncy stands and men went by and up the stairs constantly hawking food, beer, bottles of rum, sodas, cowboy hats and woven blankets to shake and wave! The band played, the townspeople (men) went into the ring and all hell broke lose. Whose counting-but we saw at least one major goring and a few run-overs. Here the bulls do not die-they are run into the ring for about five minutes so we saw as many as 10 bulls. A few were stuck by the long lances of the horseman and they bled but we were assured they were all ok.

After the fight we spent the evening in the Plaza. It was a relatively early evening back to our wonderful hotel as the Columbians go home at 11:00PM so as to spend the midnight time with family, at least in this town.

The last set of pics is of the Casa de la Abuela- "Grandma's House" with it's wonderful view of the fireworks all the way from Cartagena to Turbaco. The Casa had its own zoo- so that's where the animal pics came from.

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL

Christmas and New Years