It is certainly moving-on time in the Caribbean. Many boats that had visited Cartagena for long or shorter times from all over the world have moved or are moving on. The San Blas Islands of Panama or Kuna Yala might be the most popular spot but others are heading for other parts of Panama, Rio Dulce, Guatemala, coastal Mexico and the Atlantic- or Curacao, Aruba or Bonaire if they aren’t planning to cross the Panama Canal and explore the West coast, or perhaps heading for the Galapagos Islands or Ecuador.
Sea Star was able to re-connect with the weather provided by Chris Parker by the time we planned to leave Cartagena. Dan and other cruisers considered the forecasts and picked their best time for the direction anticipated. April 3rd we thought we had the best “window” for our anticipated 50 hour passage time. We completed all our last minute details, repacked every cabinet as we had been sitting still for four months, provisioned as I had just about forgotten how to do by now, rechecked everything we could think of, had Estuardo remove the plastic bag from our propeller and at 9:15AM we drove out of Club de Pesca into the channel with help releasing our stern dock lines from Mary and Mike from La Serena, and Kathy on the bow untying the two bird guano encrusted dock lines from the bow post, while Dan held the bow in place using the (wheue! It still works!) bow thruster. Luckily there was little wind while we pulled out.
Soon it was time to drive through the anchorage and weaving through the tied dinghies say good-bye to the remaining boats, receiving their well-wishes for “fair winds and following seas” as we made our passage. We arrived at the main Boca Grande Channel just as I had finished the stowing of lines, fenders and the gear below, and Dan called to unfurl our genoa.
We needed to tighten the genoa halyard and went forward to the mast do so. Just as we finished that task the traveler on the mid-coach roof unexpectedly let go the mainsheet with a noticeable noise. As I held the boom, (luckily the preventer was on) Dan scurried to look to see what had happened and found that a nut holding the sheet block to the traveler was actually gone, with the sheet blocks swinging a bit in the gentle breeze. I suggested that we go back, but Dan thought he could fix it. The neatly stowed contents of lockers came flying out while we perused every nut on board, the spare traveler rig and finally put three shackles into use to attach the wayward sheet block, so the three shackles allowed twisting and were held by the original pin and a circle pin- and under low loads Dan felt we could again use the main.
The coast area of Colombia is notorious for its swirling high winds caused by an area of low and thus confused and high seas as the wind pushes the water towards the shore and they pile up. It’s rare to have seas less than 6 feet but you can hope for lighter winds so less wind chop. The day was bright and sunny, the seas modest and we were sailing by the genoa alone in 15-17 knots of breeze-and that went on as predicted and expected until around 7:00PM when the wind began to become stronger than expected by the forecast and the seas higher. We were sailing at COG 305 degrees. The winds were 25 knots and gusting a little higher from the NE and ENE. Accordingly, the seas rose higher and the foam on each crest was visible even at night in the light given off by the moon. We were traveling quite fast at 7-7.5 knots and heeling to our port and coming back upright as the 8 foot seas rolled from the starboard beam, a rather uncomfortable motion, also spraying sea water over the bow and from the beam into the cockpit, wetting anyone trying to sit out there.
Well, the least said about that 24 hour the better. We did keep a radio schedule with the Southwest Caribbean net and a friend who was traveling to Providencia who had lost a rigging stay on their trip from the San Blas. We couldn’t walk, eat or sleep and we worried a great deal about our seemingly ill pilot, “Auto”, who did not seem to like being asked to give up the wheel when we were still near Cartagena. When we went to “standby”, the boat wouldn’t steer. Somehow after Dan muscled it a few times it seemed to be working again. There were ships seen on our radar keeping us on our toes, but nothing came too close for comfort.
By 9:00AM on Saturday, we had been underway 24 hours and we were still moving along well at 6.5 knots in 6-7 foot but receding seas and 15 kn of wind. The boat was dryer although salt-encrusted allowing us to emerge from below and enjoy the beautiful day. By the time we approached Roncador on Sunday morning, Easter, 11:15 the wind was 9 to 10 knots. We only had to use the engine two hours during the entire 340 nm trip of 50 hours.
Upon arriving we talked to the Naval detachment stationed at Roncador and within a few hours had rested a bit and visited their Commandante who was happy to have us stay at the Banks for a few days as planned.
As I write this we are the only boat here- we are resting and we found that surprise of surprises, the Sirius radio we have been paying for for some months was actually available to us out in the boonies of Roncador. We could catch up on news, Tiger and golf and comedy central.
- we snorkeled yesterday, but the wind is up today, seeing a variety of reef fish; parrot, butterfly, tangs, black durgeon, tunny, squirrel etc. and seeing the reefs protected by their masters. One small patch reef had a silently gliding barracuda, and one closer to the outer reef a rather curious and watchful shark. Not having been in the water either swimming or snorkeling since November, the water feels good; warm and inviting and the brilliant blue we remember. Dan has to go a bit careful with his knee as managing fins is exercise when there is current. We are rested and eating normally again. Our plan is to leave on Thursday.
Now we are not the only boat at Roncador. The Guarda Coasta has arrived bringing people to work on the generator on the island and some supplies. Only problem was they seemed to have "holed" their smaller delivery boat and called Sea Star for a bit of help. Dan ferried the workers and supplies in our dinghy and met some very nice Coast Guard men, one who spoke English.
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| Roncador April 2010 |
