"THE GREEN TABLE " MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK July 27-31, 2011

Mesa Verde

The Green Table.  Mesa Verde National Park, COLORADO.

“On a snowy December day in 1888, while ranchers Richard Wetherill and Charlie Mason searched Mesa Verde’s canyons for stray cattle, they unexpectedly came upon Cliff Palace for the first time. The following year, the Wetherill brothers and Mason explored an additional 182 cliff dwellings.”

“ June 29, 1906, President Theodore Roosevelt established Mesa Verde National Park to "preserve the works of man," the first national park of its kind. Today, the continued preservation of both cultural and natural resources is the focus of the park's research and resource management staff.”

Mesa Verde preserves the artifacts and homesites of early Indian settlers, the Ancestral Pueblans, formerly referred to as Anastasi People, and others who came after.  These people lived and farmed the high mesas (therefore the name Green Table) of the four corner region of what is now Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona.  Three groups are represented there; the very earliest people were called the Basket Weavers but they were not the builders of the cliff dwellings.  The following NPS website explains the history.  
(if you choose to check the link, you will navigate from this blog-I don't know how to insert the site and bring you back to blog without reloading) 


National Park Service - Mesa Verde

Puebloans and their world

 They left behind the interesting sandstone brick homes, bricks made one at a time and buildings to as tall as three stories in height, and more questions than the scientists or Park Rangers can answer.  Through ongoing research by archeologists and scientists, Rangers try to dispel myths- one of which concerns the difficulty of Ancestral Pueblan lives and in the same vein, the need for protection from other marauding tribes.  While walking the cliff house dwellings with a Ranger we are told these were probably non-warlike people; farmers who despite the lack of steady sources of water and too hot or too cold climate, coped well with their environment.  Due to archeological finds of decorated basketry and sophisticated pottery, it is assumed they had access to trade and leisure time.  

Our visit included climbs and long walks to three major Cliff Dwellings in the park, Balcony House, Cliff House and Long House- fabulous ruins and examples of the larger dwellings built, some with over 150 rooms. The Rangers say the houses are not reconstructed in any way but “stabilized” by a few metal beams and monitored.  As the homes fall, and they do, the old beams are saved and the hand- made bricks piled and saved.

In Mesa Verde there is a comprehensive museum to assist the visitor in understanding what can be ascertained about people who lived so long ago.  Beside the artifacts; tools, clothing (surmised from current practices of today’s Indians), in 1930 during the Civilian Conservation Corps  maintenance in the park, artists completed large dioramas to demonstrate what the lives of the three groups of early  peoples’ might have been like.  Dan and I found the museum information; explanatory movie, the exhibits of brick making, use of naturally occurring grasses and foods to enhance the enjoyment of the park.

There are two paved roads throughout the park that allow visitors to access the hikes and visit exhibits. After a day on the east side of the park, Balcony House, Cliff House and views, we camped in the park and decided to see the Long View House.  Few tourists visit the western part of the park where Long House is located, so we decided that was the place we should ride to.  The road would climb up to the top of the mesa in a series of hairpin switchbacks, so it would be fun if there were little traffic. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the locked gate to Wetherill Rd. rather early there were already some cars in line. We kinda worked our way forward so Dan could immediately follow the Rangers as they drove up to the site of Long House.  Actually, Dan wheeled to the front of the line of visitors, then slipped in line behind the woman Ranger who was driving.  Whahoo!  She proceeded to wind her way up the mountain at a perfect speed for us to wind up at a reasonable speed behind her, both of us leaving the waiting cars and pickups behind.

When the others arrived we all rode a shuttle bus for a short trip to the path to Long House and we hiked behind the Ranger down the winding paved path to the cave dwelling; Long View House.  He told us about the use of yucca for shoes, and basketry and that a yucca fiber rope of 900 ft. length had been found at LVH.  He pointed out the row of finger and toe holds the cave dwellers used or chipped, along with yucca rope ladders, to enter or leave their homes to the mesa high above.  Under the ledge of the cliff overhang above the housing structure was built a grainery room for storing the corn, squash or beans grown for food.  The Ranger suggested that much is known about the daily life of the people because they basically threw the refuse over the edge of their cliff, including the dead.

We looked into one of the many Kivas, a round hollowed area in the lower level probably used for ceremony as well as daily life.  The Kiva fire is central to the circle.  In front of the fire, oriented south is a vent column open to the top, a vent outlet is at the base and a deflecting stone helps keep the entering fresh air circulating around the circle.  The entry would have been by ladder through a hole in the wooden beam circular ceiling, through the hide-coated roof structure, directly over the fire circle. 

The archeologists over time have discovered more about the materials used and that these people fired beautifully decorated functional pottery, made arrowheads and stone tools and fashioned decorative items like beadwork and jewelry.  From these items they’ve surmised that the people of the cliff dwellings had leisure time and did not engage in warfare.  As the Ranger said, “The people did not ‘vanish’.  People do not just vanish, they may have moved farther south to what is now New Mexico as there are 22 Indian tribes along the River.

Tribes of Mesa Verde

Returning after our tour, a walk and birding on the Wetherill west road, we were coasting our way back down the mountain when we saw right in front of our eyes, possible disaster.  We saw a very young black bear- ON OUR SIDE of the road!  We heard each other gasp but it was too “late” to stop or to change course.  Dan slowed as much as he could but I just held on to the bike and focused on the cute little animal just standing there.  It looked like we could pass it; then it started across the road right in front of us.  Dan swerved then sped up to straighten out- (luckily there were no ascending cars at the moment) and we missed that cub by inches! I could have touched his little furry back- ‘cause I wasn’t driving.  Around the next bend Dan pulled over to breathe.  He had seen the Mama bear close to road in the bushes on the side the cub crossed safely to.  That was a close call, I guess for all of us -except Mama Bear, who might not have been in a good mood had we run over her cub….. and maybe dropped the bike!

See my 3 internet chosen -copied pictures to illustrate.

bear black

Anyway, all was well and we had quite a story for our last real day of the west trip that had started mid April.  It was now July 31, 2011 and we were hearing of bad weather heading toward Florida.  After visiting Mesa Verde, one of our personally favorite National Parks, Dan and I strapped the bike on the trailer and headed for Florida.  Thanks to the kindness of the cruisers on our dock at Titusville all was well with Sea Star when we returned three days later.  We arrived in time to hear that Tropical Storm Emily had not developed further and then was disintegrating before troubling Florida.   

Editorial comment from Kathy:  


The Parks are way beyond “beautiful” and, in my opinion, areas for the young to hike and explore are essential to coming generations understanding of the American Experience.  The resources, the geology, biology; plants, birds and animals were noted as essential by forward thinking scientifically-minded citizens, as well as Native Americans who encouraged their preservation.  Some Presidents have been more convinced of the importance of natural lands than others.  My hope is that the fight to preserve and protect will not succumb to desire for the riches.

Enjoy my last slideshow from our “Go West”, _____Man and Woman” scratching the surface of some National Parks in the USA and Canada.  

Mesa Verde

This is Mesa Verde, Colorado - we camped here.

View Sea Star Trip Path in a larger map

ROCKY MOUNTAIN RIDING ROUTE July 25-28, 2011

Leaving the Tetons and Gros Ventre, in Wyoming  we had another long ride, with some desired stops, on our way to Mesa Verde National Park in southwestern Colorado.  The route we took retraced our steps to 287E through Arapaho Indian controlled area along the Wind River, and toward Lander, stayed overnight at the Maverick Motel, drove over the historic Overland Stage Route of the Oregon Trail and the town of Rawlins. Along the highway were beautiful painted cliffs similar to the dessert.  We stayed in Lincoln campground in Medicine Bow at the end of a long day.  


The next leg of 130 mountain miles, brought us to route 130 and over the Snowy Range Pass at 10,847 feet and Medicine Bow Mt., even taller, until we crossed the border into Colorado at Tie Siding.


Poudre Canyon and Poudre River, where we took a campsite at Kelly, were along the next section on route 14 then west to the Arapaho Wildlife Preserve.  The Preserve route, 125 then 40, 70 and 91.  Route 91 runs close to the scenic road, 24, described below.  I could see the 14,000s as we continued on the highway that ran over and through heights of 6000' to 8000'.  I love my Subaru, but it struggled even with the trailer empty!  Dan, of course, had a much easier time driving the mountains.  He was cold, but the bike was the way to go- only he had to slow considerably to allow me to keep up as we hadn't discussed the route. Leadville was the place we found a hotel and planned the rest of the trip. 


Information on the 14,000s Scenic route 24 is from internet research.  We rode rt. 91 but it was from north to south.  The description below is from south to north.  There is no doubt the mountains are amazing.  It's fun to see their Collegiate names now.  At the time we rode through they were just "the Rockies".

  "One of the scenic drives in the Rockies is a section of US 24 called the Highway of the Fourteeners, because it passes a total of ten 14,000 foot peaks on either side of Buena Vista.  There is no other stretch of highway in the U.S. where you will see this many of the highest peaks together nor be able to view them so closely.  The pointed summit of Mt. Princeton first appears, later you have the first full view of Mt. Princeton, a massive mountain with great shoulder peaks on each side of the summit. Following Princeton in succession to the right are Mts. Yale and Columbia.  You then sight the sharp peak of Mt. Harvard (3rd highest peak in the Rockies), and to its right Mts. Missouri, Belford, and Oxford, all higher than 14,000 feet.  US 24 goes through the town of Buena Vista and for another 3 miles north of town, the road passes 3 or 4 miles from the Fourteeners and you have a close up view.  After Mt. Yale look for the beautiful view up North Cottonwood Basin to the Continental Divide, with the pointed Birthday Peak at the far end, standing on the Divide about 10 miles away."


As Dan and I emerged from the mountain and our view of Mt. Princeton, we turned west and were on a much less traveled road on our way to "The Million Dollar Highway", another famous biking highway and on our way past Durango, CO toward Mesa Verde. 


Quotes mostly from Wikipedia

"The original portion of the Million Dollar Highway was a toll road built by Otto Mears in 1883 to connect Ouray and Ironton. Another toll road was built over Red Mountain Pass from Ironton to Silverton. In the late 1880's Otto Mears turned to building railroads and built the Silverton Railroad north from Silverton over Red Mountain Pass to reach the lucrative mining districts around Red Mountain, terminating at Albany just eight miles south of Ouray. The remaining eight miles were considered too difficult and steep for a railroad. At one point a cog railroad was proposed, but it never made it beyond the planning stage.

In the early 1920's, the original toll road was rebuilt at considerable cost and became the present day US 550. The Million Dollar Highway was completed in 1924. Today the entire route is part of the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway. "

"The Million Dollar Highway stretches for about 25 miles in western Colorado and follows the route of U.S. 550 between Silverton and Ouray, Colorado. It is part of the San Juan Skyway Scenic Byway. Between Durango and Silverton the Skyway loosely parallels the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad." 


Looking south toward Red Mountain Pass.

This section of the route passes over three mountain passes:

Coal Bank Pass, elevation 10,640 ft 

Molas Pass, elevation 10,970 ft  

Red Mountain Pass, elevation 11,018 ft

The origin of the name Million Dollar Highway is disputed. There are several legends, though, including that it cost a million dollars a mile to build in the 1920s, and that its fill dirt contains a million dollars in gold ore.

and from Wikipedia a really good description:

"U.S. Route 550 though the entire stretch has been called the Million Dollar Highway, but it is really the twelve miles south of Ouray through the Uncompahgre Gorge to the summit of Red Mountain Pass which gains the highway its name. This stretch through the gorge is challenging and potentially hazardous to drive; it is characterized by steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and a lack of guardrails; the ascent of Red Mountain Pass is marked with a number of hairpin "S" curves used to gain elevation, and again, narrow lanes for traffic—many cut directly into the sides of mountains. During this ascent, the remains of the Idarado Mine are visible.  Travel south from Ouray to Silverton perches drivers on the vertiginous outside edge of the highway. Large RVs travel in both directions, which adds a degree of excitement (or danger) to people in cars. The road is kept open year-round. Summer temperatures can range from 70-90 degree highs at the ends of the highway to 50-70 degrees in the mountain passes. The snow season starts in October, and snow will often close the road in winter."


Enjoy the slideshow of as many pictures as we have of this terrific riding area; great scenery and lots of thrills.  Nice country.

Poudre to Molas, Red MT 20

THE BEARTOOTH, YELLOWSTONE and GRAND TETONS July 20-24, 2011

MONTANA to Wyoming Yellowstone National Park, Grand Tetons.  July 20-26, 2011


Moving on to Yellowstone National Park 


Eureka, Montana was a day drive away from our next target.  Beartooth Highway at the border of Montana and Wyoming. We had to travel from NW Montana to SE Montana and enter Wyoming.  Dan was a bit fatigued from the week of daily 2 up riding in Canada and decided to rest for two days by using the trailer for the bike until we were closer to Beartooth Highway.


We began to repack everything into the car and after food shopping and clothes washing and sorting, packing and sleep we returned the bike to the trailer and set off.  Using the major highways we headed south, then east on rt. 90 to 212- the Beartooth! 


There was a lot of motorcycle road to cover on the way from Glacier to Yellowstone.  Dan had met various bikers along the way who said “ Don’t miss the Million Dollar Rd,” or “If you go into Yellowstone from the East, you should first find the Beartooth Highway.  You ride through the Absaroka Wilderness area in Targhee Forest. Best road I ever rode on!”


A full day was necessary to cross Montana and the next night the town of Red Lodge was as far as we would travel. So after dinner in Red Lodge we looked for a place to stay and found a Forest Service campground.  As we set up the tent the wind was howling and there had been rain while we ate Mexican food at Red Lodge.  The creek we had to pass over to arrive at the campsite was raging as were most of the Montana mountain creeks we passed. Snow cover in the Rockies was said to be higher than normal, with temperatures colder recently, so as the sun and temperatures were increasing, so were the creeks rising.  Next morning after breakfast we kept on Beartooth for the 69 mile trip.


BEARTOOTH HIGHWAY

Wikopedia says, "The Beartooth Highway has been called "the most beautiful drive in America," by late CBS correspondent Charles Kuralt.^[1] Because of heavy snowfall at the top, The pass is usually open each year only from mid May through mid October because of heavy snowfall at the top, weather conditions permitting.^[2]

The Beartooth Highway is the section of U.S. Highway 212 between Red Lodge, Montana and Cooke City, Montana. It traces a series of steep zigzags and switchbacks, along the Montana-Wyoming border to the 10,947 ft  high Beartooth Pass. The approximate elevation rise is from 5,200 ft  in 12 mi  in the most daring landscapes.

When driving from the east to the west, the highest parts of the Beartooth Highway level off into a wide plateau near the top of the pass, and then descend to where the Beartooth Highway connects to the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway near Cooke City, which forms the northeast gateway to Yellowstone National Park. En route, one passes numerous lakes typical of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness Area which borders the highway along much of its route.

The highway officially opened June 14, 1936.

Because of the high altitudes, snowstorms can occur even in the middle of the summer and the pass is also known for strong winds and severe thunderstorms. Plan on a driving time of at least two hours for the 69-mile long trip from Red Lodge to Cooke City. 

The Beartooth Highway passes through portions of Custer National Forest, and Shoshone National Forest and near the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness."

Dan agreed with Charles Kuralt and other riders who either told us not to miss this road or whom we met enjoying the view along the road.  It was certainly one of his favorites. Our day was sunny and dry, but a bit windy.  The mountains were high, but the road was well kept and traffic not a big issue.  

Yellowstone National Park

Our lunch stop in Cooke City finished, we grabbed some ice, a few groceries, and entered Yellowstone National Park from the NE.  After the winding driving concentration required during the morning on Beartooth Highway, Dan was pretty tired but we had to drive miles late in the day to find a campsite.  There aren’t too many choices for camping near the entrance we used.  We drove by the three campgrounds and they all had signs “Full.” It was now summer and Yellowstone is the National Park with highest visitation.


In tired frustration we spoke to a Ranger who had just left work at the Ranger station.  Somehow he felt sorry for us when I related the “campground full” story and he suggested that because Dan was on a bike, we could try the hiker/biker section of the Tower Falls campsite, a special section reserved for hikers or bikers since they have fewer options than car campers.  We did go to look, and low and behold there was one unoccupied spot and enough room to park.  This was much better than driving out of the park and re-entering in the morning, at least 25 miles one way which was our next option!

It turned out to be a great spot!  Dan and I went for a little walk, binoculars in hand, and were able to see three Mule deer, one a large male, and, rustling in the bushes near us we looked down and saw…a black bear.  It very slowly ambled away from us, but I backed away from it back up the hill.  Dan kept watching it.

That evening we talked for a long while around the campfire with a young man who was bicycling the Beartooth the next morning.  He was telling us the places he had biked; some of the mountains we had ridden, but with two strong motors.  He was in very good shape, obviously, but bicycling the Beartooth?  Since he left early and was going the opposite way, we wondered after how he had done! 


In the morning we lurked until a nearby camping family left, grabbed and paid for the now vacant site for a night, so we could go out and explore the park and have a place to come back to.  We left the car and set off down the rough campground road to the main loop heading west.

Yellowstone has miles of paved road to explore, the road makes a large loop around the park and off toward the various park entries, meaning to go the entire way around would be many miles on the bike.  We headed to Mammoth Hot Springs at the North Entrance and would continue around toward Old Faithful, unless we didn’t get there. There were many turn-offs and vista to stop and explore.

 Unlike many of the National Parks we visited where we did not have the roads to ourselves, but…the traffic wasn’t too bad, EVERYBODY wants to be in Yellowstone, making the traffic abominable.  RV’s, trailers of all sizes, a gazillion cars, pickups, 4X4’s and even other motorcycles clog the turn-offs, crowd the roads and parking lots as they crane their necks to spot the prolific wildlife, especially the Grizzly bear or Elk then they/we steer off the road in unapproved places, cameras, scopes and binoculars in hand.  Bison and Black bear can be seen sometimes, too.

Leaving the campground we bought breakfast at the historic landmark Roosevelt Lodge and Horse Stables, viewing meadows of tall grasses stretching to the base of low mountains and, at Indian Camp, Alpine meadows containing small ponds, each pond with its own fly fisherman. The groups and couples enjoying these lessor peopled places appeared tranquil  because people were taking time to walk and engage with the surroundings in a different way than the more frantic auto traffic.


 I knew Yellowstone was famous for Old Faithful Geyser but there are a lot more than the one geyser in the park. Yellowstone SW road has many places where the ground spews steam over a crusty ground.   We found the “hot and steamy” side of the park very interesting with its plumes of steam and incredible pastel rainbow colors.  There was even a bubbling caldron of white mud with bubbles bursting six inches above the ground level called the Paint Pot.   Geothermal anyone?

The day was hot, the ground was hot, and the motorcycle was hot especially wearing all the gear, so we headed back to camp for the day arriving late in the afternoon, and not reaching Old Faithful.  The following day we started around the loop the opposite way, up the mountain to Dunraven Pass at 8900ft.  There were some RV’s on this twisty, steep mountain road.  They couldn’t climb the mountain and held up traffic. Passing, even on the bike, was difficult.  We headed now south to Canyon Village, Lake Village, Yellowstone Lake, a beautiful thirty mile glacier lake where apparently many types of Salmon and other fish live and the local people and tourists fish with local guides.  In some places hunting is allowed in the park, too.  There were just as many places to stop and explore or walk –we never made Old Faithful—but that’s OK as we thought we may have to stand around for a long time, as long as 90 minutes, to see an eruption.

We left the Park by the South Entrance and headed for Grand Teton National Park, just 60 miles away, much less traveled and another park filled with fabulous sights; snow covered high mountains and lots of buffalo.  At the end of two days in Grand Teton we left the park and camped at Gros Venture which involved a twenty mile gravel and dirt road for Dan and a rattletrap jarring for the trailer and me in the car.


Dan and I were off to western Colorado and our to be last stop; Mesa Verde National Park.

YELLOWSTONE INFORMATION

Established in 1872, Yellowstone National Park is America's first national park. Located in Wyoming, Montana and Idaho, it is home to a large variety of wildlife including grizzly bears, wolves, bison, and elk. Preserved within Yellowstone National Park are Old Faithful and a collection of the world's most extraordinary geysers and hot springs, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

Did You Know?
Yellowstone contains approximately one-half of the world’s hydrothermal features. There are over 10,000 hydrothermal features, including over 300 geysers, in the park.

An active volcano Approximately 1,000–3,000 earthquakes annually Approximately 10,000 thermal features More than 300 geysers One of the world’s largest calderas, measuring 45 by 30 miles (72 by 48 km) Thousands of petrified trees in northern Yellowstone Approximately 290 waterfalls, 15 ft. or higher, flowing year-round Tallest waterfall: Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River at 308 ft. (94 m) YELLOWSTONE LAKE 131.7 sq. miles (35,400 hectares) of surface area 141 miles (177 km) of shoreline 20 miles (32 km) north to south 14 miles (23 km) east to west Average depth: 140 feet (43 m) Maximum depth: about 410 feet (122 m) CULTURAL RESOURCES 26 associated American Indian tribes Approximately 1,600 archeological sites More than 300 ethnographic resources (animals, plants, sites) More than 24 sites, landmarks, and districts on the National Register of Historic Places 1 National Historic Trail More than 900 historic buildings  More than 379,000 cultural objects and natural science specimens  Thousands of books (many rare), manuscripts, periodicals  About 90,000 photographic prints and negatives LA Internet Website: www.nps.gov/yell/

Did You Know? There were no wolves in Yellowstone in 1994. The wolves that were reintroduced in 1995 and 1996 thrived and there are now over 300 of their descendants living in the Greater Yellowstone Area. Enjoy our slideshow of  Beartooth Highway, Yellowstone and Teton National Parks Yellowstone & Grand Teton

DO THEY REALLY SKI UP HERE? GLACIER NATIONAL PARK

The end of the week on the bike.  To the USA and Glacier National Park -  return to Eureka,  Mt. July 16-17, 2011

Dan and I arrived at Glacier National Park on July 16.  We had ridden (still the BMW) quite a few miles that morning without finding breakfast or, more importantly, coffee- and were certainly ready for both when we saw a small coffee shop and stopped.  The waitress was lovely and friendly with everyone, but just did not wait on us.  Meanwhile we overheard another customer being told the coffee maker was not working.  It took us a while, but we finally walked out and continued down the road towards Glacier Park to the closest town, St. Mary’s.  We did find a nice place to have breakfast and I was even able to purchase a new CF card for my camera so I could take pictures at Glacier and save my old card to upload pictures when I returned to Florida. Good thing, too.  When I tried to download, I had lost many pictures.

 Soon Dan and I drove into Glacier Park and were told that indeed the Road to the Sun road had just opened!  That was the good news; the bad news was that there was quite a bit of construction going on. Although there is the cute, red, Park Shuttle, Dan wanted to take the bike so off and up we rode.  Compared to Banff and Jasper the snow had melted off and the landscape was much greener, lakes and river were more accessible.  In Park literature, however, we were warned that due to climate change these glaciers were melting and in perhaps as little as twenty years the Park glaciers would probably be gone!


Our assessment was that even after the majestic splendor of  Banff  and Jasper, Glacier was still different and a great visit.  Most memorable for me was the glacial run-off causing the ash blue water to blast over the rocks we stood on.  The construction and limitation of where you could safely stop to snap a photo was a drawback. 

Road to the Sun, the main driving road and only road through the park provides many long vistas to marvel at as you drive up over the mountains through the park.  There are places you just can’t stop to get a picture, but on the back of the bike, I could sometimes grab a picture while moving along.  We stopped at the Visitor Center at Logan Pass, the highest point, and were amused to see the skiers coming down off Logan Peak after walking up with gear to ski down.  They were so “cool” in shorts or no shirt and ski boots!  Hikers and bikers were plentiful and  tourists like us filled the parking lot.  High on a rocky steppe above the parking lot we were able to spot a bighorn sheep looking down.

We continued down the mountain road, twisting and switchback coasting to the beautiful glacial blue river raging at the bottom, and a campsite.  Whew!  We were back to being able to have park entry fees waived, and paying half price for a campsite due to our having a National Park Pass.  Back to the $10.00 per night campsite and buy wood for $6.00.  Much better-so we went out to dinner at the tourist town near Lake McDonald walking distance to our campsite at Apgar.   In the morning we would be ready to head to Eureka, the Ksanka Hotel and a soft bed by evening.  




Here are some pictures of Glacier National Park, Montana

Glacier National Park

BEAUTIFUL WILD CANADA.July 10-15, 2011

Banff, Jasper, Waterton National Parks

Eureka, Montana  July 10-15, 2011  Invermere on route 93/95 to Banff, Jasper, Lake Louise, Waterton Glacier

 Dan and I were driving along an excellent biking road in Idaho having driven the Cascades Highway rt. 20. when we stopped at Bonner’s Ferry Campground to rest.  It was then that we discussed the possibility of taking only the bike into Canada to Banff National Park, then Jasper National Park for about a week.  As we figured out what we would absolutely need to camp, and bring all our riding gear, we thought the plan was do-able, so we used the picnic table we were sitting at and started to refold our tent, sleeping pads, sleeping bags and other “stuff” to their original small sizes. Yes, we could, with difficulty, get it all to fit including the new, velour blanket I had insisted on buying a few campsites previously.   The next part of the plan was to find a place to leave the car and trailer for the week.  We found such a place, the friendly Motel Ksanka in Eureka, which put us close to the US / Canadian border at Kalispell. 

The border crossing was quick and straightforward; “How long will you be in Canada?  Have you been here before?  US citizens? Show passports." Done.  

So July 11 found us following rte. 93/95 N, a slightly winding, very scenic road we followed to the town of Invermere, the first place we could change money, and then, before I even realized it from my perch on the back, we were in line to enter Banff.  The Ranger asked, "How many days will you be spending in the park?"

After getting over the shock of $20 a day for Park entry, plus $27.00 daily for a campsite and $8.00 extra for a fire ring (wood included), the very most we had spent camping on our trip, (especially since US Parks allow us to enter for free), we zipped into the Banff National Park for at least two days, and immediately began to enjoy the high mountains behind greenstrip scenery and the deer frequently seen along the side of the road. The road signs suggested more wildlife to come; signs for elk and bear and warning signs for drivers to be watchful for wildlife came into view. 

Our heads swiveling like bobble-head dolls, both watching for critters, as we enjoyed the open view from the bike. Banff and Jasper both consist of mountainous terrain with glaciers, icefields, dense coniferous forest and alpine landscapes.  The Icefields Parkway extends from Lake Louise and connects with Jasper National Park in the north.  

Mt. Rundle, seen from the town of Banff and Castle Mountain are a few of the named mountains within the overlooking cambrian cliffs, rising high above our heads.  Our exploration took us past Kootenay Hot Springs, Attrude Creek and to Tunnel Mountain Campsite for our first night in the park, where I read there actually is no tunnel through Tunnel Mountain.  A mining company wanted to put a tunnel there but never did.  

We were close enough to the upscale tourist recreation town of Banff to ride in for a pizza, then return to set up camp and start the fire to keep mosquitoes at bay. We met and shared our pizza with a BMW rider from Maui, thinking it was strange that we met two BMW GS riders on our trip and they are both from Maui!  The second one told us he was only aware of two GS bikes on Maui, his and a silver one.  I wondered if it was Pats'.

Next morning we awoke to cold, probably low 40's, so we stayed in the tent awhile, then drove into Banff town again and sought out breakfast since we had no cooking supplies with us- not even coffee!   Fully geared up against the cold, we followed rt. 1A, the Icefield Highway, all the way to Jasper Park, along the way stopping at intriguing overlook and pull-offs, awed and gasping at the size and then increasing size and isolation of these massive Rocky Mountains, their bases running with icy streams, sometimes gushing torrents, of melting snowfall; a wonderful, smoky-looking new-to-us shade of grayish-aqua. On our previous travels on Sea Star we met astounding hues of blue, and here was a completely new one.

We drove down a dirt road and explored a small part of the Columbia Ice Fields where tourists may walk, or take an ice shuttle to get a better view of the many glaciers.  There were signs showing us the extent of glacial movement in previous years.  We walked with bus loads of other tourists to Athabaska Falls, a spectacular waterfall below the Athabaska Glacier and then headed for a new campground, in the area of Jasper National Park-even less traveled than Banff.  Exhausted from a long day of riding, we went to the closest place we could for dinner, a mile away Jasper Mountain Lodge. Jasper Lodge while quite attractive was, like many of our hotel choices in or near the parks, prohibitively expensive for a room.  Typical tourists we figured might pay $150.00 per night to stay inside, so we were glad we had brought our gear with us.  People camp with RVS or pop-up campers and they made up most of the campers we saw.  We did learn that there are hostels and even some other accommodation choices that serve tourists who bike, hike or climb more cheaply.

In the morning, a late start again as we had to go to Jasper town to eat, we traveled even more carefully because of fog and then pouring rain, back over the mountain passes, this time using route 1 to Banff, then on toward Lake Louise, where we wanted to camp. Along the way, in the rain we met and talked to two kinds of recreational tourists.  The first young woman turned her bike into the pull-off where Dan and I were under a semi-shelter, and joined us.  She was part of a mountain street bike trek, freezing and waiting for a van pick-up to bring her the last 7 miles to Columbia Icefield- an RV was there that she would stay in for the night. The second tourist was a man our age who was also bicycling to the Icefield.  He had an older bike, was dressed in a typical poncho and carried his tent, etc.  He chatted with us a bit and off he went.  That evening he would sleep at a hostel near the Icefield, because of the wet. He did his own planning, used no high tech clothing or technology.  I was impressed, because even on the BMW we were still barely surface covering the parks.  More time, more time is needed.

 When the rain stopped, well, actually it didn’t, we were soaked, but we continued on toward Lake Louise.  After a bit of confusion about where the camping was, we put up our tent and built a fire.  Now was the time to dry our riding clothes and boots over the fire.  Lake Louise town and wild areas were having some problem with  black bears.  It was Spring there and the bears were coming out. To cope with bears that might come in the campground smelling for food, the fence encircling the campground is electrified.  We had no problem and only saw roadside bears as well as elk and black tail deer.

Leaving the Parks we headed for a road on the map that Dan thought “looked interesting” and perhaps it would have limited traffic.  He was correct on both counts. Driving rt 11 then 40 through Kankanasus Wilderness Road allowed some great wildlife sightings and was more fun motorcycling- even given driving cautions to warn drivers that the creatures could easily be running across the road, which we learned we had better heed.  Kankanasus area included fabulously green, stick straight expanse of evergreen trees and aspens. Acres of flowers infused the alpine meadows.  The roadside information podiums tell of the unbelievable age of the stunted trees and meadow vegetation.

After crossing a place named Highwood Pass at about 10,000 ft., where wild mountain goats were grazing, then many more miles of travel,  we found a tiny store where we had a yummy supper of microwaved cheeseburger, and Klondike bars, found a roadside campsite where we were the only campers.  The cotton plants were exploding pollen everywhere and ground squirrels were as plentiful as ants but our spot on the river was very pretty.  

Next morning we headed on towards Waterton. We passed lots of interesting sights.  We tried to visit the Buffalo Preserve as we came back in sight of the Montana Mountains.  It was pretty but, unfortunately, we did not see buffalo. It was strongly suggested that motorcycles not enter the preserve.  I wonder why?

Waterton National Park is the Canadian portion of the combined Waterton Glacier Peace Park.  We camped one night in the Canadian section, then drove the bike back into the US so we could enter Glacier National Park from the east.  We had been without our internet or phone while in Canada and wondered if the Glacier National Park Road to the Sun had yet opened for the season.  If it had not we would have a long drive to return to Eureka, Montana and the car.  We would have to check later, closer to the Park entry.

Some  Canadian Park, information from internet sites or maps we were given.

"The contiguous national parks of Banff, Jasper, Kootenay and Yoho, as well as the Mount Robson, Mount Assiniboine and Hamber provincial parks, studded with mountain peaks, glaciers, lakes, waterfalls, canyons and limestone caves, form a striking mountain landscape.

In the fall of 1883, three Canadian Pacific Railway construction workers stumbled across a cave containing hot springs (these natural hot mineral springs are among the top attractions in the Canadian Rockies. Banff Upper Hot Springs offers a splendid historic bathhouse located in Banff National Park. Radium Hot Springs in BC’s Kootenay National Park is famous for its canyon setting.  Jasper National Park contains Miette Hot Springs with the hottest mineral water in the Rockies. - we visited none of these-very commercial).

From that humble beginning was born Banff National Park, Canada's first national park and the world's third. 2,564 square miles of valleys, mountains, glaciers, forests, meadows and rivers, Banff National Park is one of the world's premier destination spots.

Banff National Park is divided into units based on vegetation, landforms and soil. This system of land classification is used to identify and inventory similar regions within the park in order to better manage park ecosystems. The park is classified into ecoregions, which are further divided into ecosections and ecosites. There are three ecoregions in the park: montane, subalpine, and alpine.

Jasper is the gentle giant of the Rockies, offering visitors a more laid-back mountain experience - with equal options for adventure, discovery and relaxation.

As one of Canada’s oldest and largest national parks, established in 1907, Jasper was once seen as an island of civilization in a vast wilderness. More recently, it has become a popular getaway from urban life, and a special place to reconnect with nature.

Jasper National Park is the largest of Canada's Rocky Mountain Parks and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site with 4335 square miles of broad valleys, rugged mountains, glaciers, forests, alpine meadows and wild rivers along the eastern slopes of the Rockies in western Alberta. There are more than 660 miles of hiking trails (both overnight and day trips), and a number of spectacular mountain drives. The largest Dark Sky Preserve on the planet, there are endless ways to enjoy the magic of Jasper National Park.

Jasper joins Banff National Park to the south via the Icefields Parkway. This parkway offers unparalleled beauty as you travel alongside a chain of massive icefields straddling the Continental Divide. The Columbia Icefield borders the parkway in the southern end of the park.

Large numbers of elk, bighorn sheep, mule deer and other large animals, as well as their predators make Jasper National Park one of the great protected ecosystems remaining in the Rocky Mountains. This vast wilderness is one of the few remaining places in southern Canada that is home to a full range of carnivores, including grizzly bears, mountain lions, wolves and wolverines.

In such a large and spectacular area, there are many sights to see and plenty of stories to be told. A few of the highlightes are listed here:

The highest mountain in Alberta, Mt. Columbia

The hydrographic apex of North America (the Columbia Icefield) where water flows to three different oceans from one point;

The longest underground drainage system known in Canada (the Maligne Valley karst);

The only sand-dune ecosystem anywhere in the Four Mountain Parks (Jasper Lake dunes);

The northern limit in Alberta of Douglas-fir trees (Brûlé Lake);

The last fully protected range in the Rocky Mountains for caribou (Maligne herd);

The most accessible glacier in North America (the Athabasca).

Waterton-Glacier Park

The park's variety of vegetation communities provides homes for many animals, including more than 60 species of mammals, over 250 species of birds, 24 species of fish, and 10 reptiles and amphibians. Large predators include wolf, coyote, cougar, grizzly bear, and American black bear. The grasslands are important winter range for ungulates such as elk, mule deer, and white-tailed deer. In the fall, the marsh and lake areas of the park are used extensively by migrating ducks, swans, and geese. Some animals found here are considered rare or unusual eg. trumpeter swans, Vaux's swifts, and vagrant shrews.

Waterton Lakes National Park also has global importance because of several key international designations:

Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park (1932) - The Peace Park was originally created as a symbol of peace and goodwill between the United States and Canada, but has now evolved to also represent cooperation in a world of shared resources. Both parks strive to protect the ecosystem through shared management, not only between themselves, but also with their other neighbors.

On December 6, 1995 UNESCO designated the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park as a World Heritage Site because it has a distinctive climate, physiographic setting, mountain-prairie interface, and tri-ocean hydrographical divide. It is an area of significant scenic values with abundant and diverse flora and fauna.

Criteria (revised in 2006)

(vii) Both national parks were originally designated by their respective nations because of their superlative mountain scenery, their high topographic relief, glacial landforms, and abundant diversity of wildlife and wildflowers.

(ix) The property occupies a pivotal position in the Western Cordillera of North America resulting in the evolution of plant communities and ecological complexes that occur nowhere else in the world. Maritime weather systems unimpeded by mountain ranges to the north and south allow plants and animals characteristic of the Pacific Northwest to extend to and across the continental divide in the park. To the east, prairie communities nestle against the mountains with no intervening foothills, producing an interface of prairie, montane and alpine communities.

 The international peace park includes the headwaters of three major watersheds draining through significantly different biomes to different oceans. The biogeographical significance of this tri-ocean divide is increased by the many vegetated connections between the headwaters. The net effect is to create a unique assemblage and high diversity of flora and fauna concentrated in a small area.

Waterton Biosphere Reserve (1979) - As Canada's second biosphere reserve, Waterton was the first Canadian national park to take part in this UNESCO program. Biosphere Reserves are created to achieve a better understanding of the relationship between humans and the natural environment by integrating knowledge and experience from both natural and social sciences. Major goals are to support information exchange, research, education, training and improved land management; largely through cooperation and shared projects with local private landowners and government agencies.

Enjoy Canada's beautiful, and protected scenery and maintained National lands and Reserves:

16 Canada Banff, Jasper wildlife reserve